dining out
News for foodies
Published Thursday, 09-Oct-2008 in issue 1085
by Frank Sabatini Jr.
Marbles for madams
Sculpted mirrors, plush booth seating and dramatic windowscapes set the stage for downtown’s Marble Room, a stylish restaurant that opened last week in a historical building with racy roots. The structure reportedly served as a thriving brothel in the late 19th century and was operated by a fortuneteller named Madam Cora. It featured about 20 rooms, each distinguished by different pastel colors that corresponded to the girls’ working attire. As customers requested specific girls, they were given a marble that color-matched their designations. Today, the token for entry is simply an appetite for “shared plates” crafted by executive chef Bill Sauer. www.gaylesbiantimes.com/links/1085
Connect the dots
Lindsay Pomeroy of Wine Smarties will conduct an interactive wine-and-food class that teaches participants to match various wines to certain dishes. Attendees will first be given an overview on the characteristics of red, white, sparkling and dessert wines, and how each one complements different foods. Then as groups, the teams must map out menus that pair the four wine styles with different dishes from a buffet that Pomeroy will provide. The class will be held from 4-6 p.m., Oct. 18, in the garden of Pomeroy’s Hillcrest residence. The cost is $40, which includes food and wine. www.gaylesbiantimes.com/links/1085
North Park wine river
After reporting several weeks ago about the November arrival of a wine bar in North Park called Mosiac, I received word that competition is lurking just several blocks down 30th Street with yet another new wine joint called Splash, which is also due to open next month. Splash will introduce modern Italian technology for dispensing its juice, allowing customers to sample one-ounce pours from self-serve devices activated by pre-paid plastic cards. About 70 different varietals will be available. www.gaylesbiantimes.com/links/1085
Gourmet hotspot in Escondido
I’ve set my sights on Tango for the next time I find myself in Escondido. The new restaurant is billed as a chic dining haven for dishes featuring naturally raised meat and game, line-caught fish and organic produce. Chef Russell Hawkins is at the helm of the kitchen after acquiring a cutting-edge cooking style gained from working at the world-famous Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago, plus stints at San Diego’s Mille Fleurs, Market and Bertrand at Mr. A’s. www.gaylesbiantimes.com/links/1085
Grumblings …
Karl Strauss Brewery on Columbia Street is for frat boys. In a recent visit, three flat-screen TVs were blaring different sports games simultaneously with head-banging music emanating from a certain obnoxious local radio station. A nearby flock of self-absorbed bimbos grew louder with every ounce of ale they swallowed. And our waiter managed to use the word “awesome” to us three times while lazily waiting on our table.
The Fullerton-based Flame Broiler, which just opened its first San Diego location in Mission Valley, serves a disappointing hodgepodge of low-grade skirt steak, beef ribs and chicken in either plate or rice-bowl form. The “secret marinade” is monotonous. And even worse, are the frighteningly dull photographs of the meals on the menu board.
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