NULES, Spain (AP) – Clementines have been available in Europe for many years, but the market for them in the United States didn’t take off until a devastating freeze in Florida in 1989 made domestic oranges scarce and expensive. A lot of citrus fruit was imported from Europe then, and clementines started to catch on.

Seedless, juicy and easy to peel, they are especially popular with children. And as their availability increases, the clementine is moving out of the lunchbox and onto restaurant menus and dining-room tables, as an ingredient in chicken, fish or rice dishes and green salads, as well as desserts.

For fish:

11/2 teaspoons allspice

11/2 teaspoons coriander seed

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns

4 striped bass fillets (you may substitute red snapper, sea bass or other firm-fleshed fish)

1 tablespoon olive oil

3 medium-size tomatoes

1 medium onion, peeled

2 garlic cloves, chopped

Juice of 8 clementines (you may substitute freshly squeezed juice of 6 oranges)

1/2 fresh or dried habanero chili (you may substitute 1 teaspoon habanero sauce or more to taste)

2 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 tablespoons lard, or olive oil

For relish:

6 clementines, peeled

1 small red onion, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

To prepare the fish:

Place the whole spices in a small skillet over medium heat and cook, shaking the pan often, until the aroma is released, about one minute. Let cool slightly and grind in a coffee or spice grinder or mortar and pestle. Sprinkle the fish filets with the spices and let sit in the refrigerator until ready to use.

Coat tomatoes and onion with the olive oil, place on a baking sheet or in an ovenproof baking dish, and roast in a 450 F oven until blackened and blistered all over. (The tomato will take about 10 to 12 minutes, and the onion about 20.) Place tomatoes in a bowl to catch the juices, and let rest until cool enough to handle; peel.

If using a dried habanero chili, soak in hot water for 10 minutes before using. Wearing gloves, remove the seeds from either chili and place chili in a blender with the tomatoes, onion, garlic cloves, juice and chicken stock.

Heat two tablespoons lard or oil until rippling in a heavy, non-reactive, medium-size saucepan or Dutch oven and add the sauce. Cook uncovered for about 10 minutes or until slightly reduced and small craters form on the top. Set aside.

The fish can be grilled, pan-fried or broiled. Just season with salt and pepper and serve on top of a generous amount of sauce. Top with the relish, draining the liquid with a slotted spoon.

To prepare relish:

Using a sharp, small knife, remove the pith and skin from the clementines. Cut out the segments and place in a small bowl. Combine with the cilantro and salt and let rest for a few minutes.

(Recipe from Zarela, 953 Second Ave., New York City)

4 to 5 unpeeled clementines (about 1 pound total weight)

6 eggs

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

2 and 1/3 cups ground almonds

1 heaping teaspoon baking powder

Put the unpeeled clementines in a pot with cold water to cover, bring to the boil, and cook for two hours.

Drain and, when cool, cut each clementine in half and remove the seeds. Then chop everything finely – skins, pith, fruit – in the food processor (or by hand, of course). Preheat the oven to 375 F. Butter and line an eight-inch spring-form pan.

Beat the eggs. Add the sugar, almonds and baking powder. Mix well by hand, adding the chopped clementines.

Pour the cake mixture into the prepared pan and bake for an hour, when a skewer will come out clean; you’ll probably have to cover the cake with foil after about 40 minutes to stop the top burning.

Remove from the oven and leave to cool, on a rack, but in the pan. When the cake’s cold, you can take it out of the pan. Lawson thinks the cake tastes even better when it has sat a day.

(Recipe from How to Eat: The Pleasures and Principles of Good Food, by Nigella Lawson)