Mr. Vino pulled a beautiful silver pen from his jacket pocket and looked intensely at the wine list. We were joined by Lacy Bottoms, the new manager of Chez Suave. Lacy was a striking, ebony-skinned beauty with flawless facial features and an hourglass figure. I handed her a glass of bubbly.

“How I love a beautiful sparkling wine,” she said in her elegant English accent. “It is simply heavenly.”

Mr. Vino dropped his pen on the table. “Lacy, do you have any favorite bubblies?” he asked.

She brushed her long hair back from her face. “I’ve always enjoyed cava and prosecco, but I have a passion for brut rosé,” she said. “The light pink looks lovely in the glass surrounded by thousands of bubbles. There is a certain elegance to the nose that comes from the pinot noir that regular brut just doesn’t have.”

I poured more bubbly for Lacy and Mr. Vino. “I feel that the blend of chardonnay and pinot noir in champagne has always taken away from the sensuality of pinot noir,” I said. “The chardonnay starts to dominate the aromatics and mutes the pinot noir.”

Mr. Vino ordered another bottle of champagne and a plate of chilled oysters wrapped in spinach and cream. “It is true that the blend of pinot noir and chardonnay mutes the characteristics of both varietals,” he said. “We are so used to drinking both wines as still wines and as 100-percent varietals, so those sense memories are always in our heads.

“It is important to remember that champagne is a different kind of wine,” he continued. “Forget about the varietals used and enjoy the blend.”

“Interesting,” Lacy said, eyeing the champagne as it was brought to the table. “Now, blanc de blancs offers more of the chardonnay experience in a sparkling wine.”

“Yes, it’s 100-percent chardonnay,” Mr. Vino said as he opened the bottle of Laurent-Perrier Rosé himself. “But the bubbles dominate the experience.”

I had a full glass of the bubbly rosé when the oysters appeared. To me, Laurent-Perrier Rosé Brut is the perfect wine. The aromatics are enchanting and the mousse has a galaxy of star-bursting bubbles in it. The wine has a level of crispness most champagne never achieves. And the finish lingers in your head for years. You remember the wine like your first kiss.

Lacy and Mr. Vino were enjoying the oysters and laughing. Mr. Vino poured each of them another glass. “Champagne is the wine of celebration,” he said, “whether it’s to ring in the New Year, commemorate the birth of a baby, celebrate a wedding, you name it.

“The problem is that we need to celebrate more often,” he said. “You don’t need a special occasion to drink champagne. Any day that ends in a ‘y’ will do.”

We all laughed. Lefty came up to us and asked Mr. Vino how brut rosé gets its color.

“Brut rosé, which is also known as blanc de noir, gets its color from the red grape skins,” Mr. Vino explained after finishing an oyster. “With very few exceptions, grape juice is white, so winemakers let the juice and the skin have very little contact – say 15 minutes or so – to give the wine a little blush of color.”

Lacy smiled. “When wine is called blanc de blancs, it is made exclusively with white grapes, and in Champagne that means chardonnay,” she said. “In Spain, it refers to the native white varietals from Cava. Brut rosé and blanc de noir are made almost exclusively with pinot noir, whether in Champagne or here in California.”

Finishing another oyster, Mr. Vino asked Lefty to bring a bottle of Nicolas Feuillatte Blanc de Blancs so we could compare it with the Laurent-Perrier Rosé Brut.

Lacy popped open the wine and Lefty sat down at our table. She handed him two champagne flutes, each about half full of champagne. The color difference was notable, the brut rosé a very light pink and the blanc de blancs golden, like an earring. Lefty liked the nose of both wines. The brut rosé had a light strawberry-cherry nose and the blanc de blancs smelled of straw and bread dough.

Both wines had an equal amount of bubbles, and both had a similar mouth feel. They each reflected some very nice fruit, but the blanc de blancs lingered a little longer on the palate and had some nice hints of minerality. The brut rosé had juicier fruit and greater beauty.

Lefty said he liked the wines equally and went back to work. We enjoyed the champagne and went back to work on the wine list.