After making a series of additions and cuts to create a 100-item wine list for Chez Suave, we had finally finished it.

Our goal was to create a list that reflected the cutting edge culinary experience at Chez Suave, where none of the wines were the same. Lacy Bottoms had been most helpful, particularly with her outstanding knowledge of artisan California wines, and all the wines on the list were unique in one way or another. For example, there were 10 domestic chardonnays, but each of them was different stylistically. The wines were from different appellations, and the use of oak was different – some of the wines spent over a year in French oak and others in American oak for even longer. A couple of the wines saw no oak whatsoever.

It was 8:30 p.m. and Mr. Vino, Lacy and I were in the bar waiting for Chef Kenny’s limo to take us to Dali’s for a late-night supper. There we would share our changes to the Chez Suave wine list with Chef Kenny.

We were all having various coffee drinks in silence when Lacy smiled and said: “I am very pleased with the way the list looks. It reflects a lot of care to create a wine list that is unique to Chez Suave.”

“Yes, even though we fought like cats and dogs over selections,” Mr. Vino said, waving his long fingers in the air. “The end result is what it is all about. A good wine list can be a work of art. It reflects the taste of the chef and the aesthetic experience offered in a fine-dining establishment such as Chez Suave.”

“I know, Mr. Vino, that you think it’s important to change the wine list on a regular basis, but why is that?” I asked, taking a long sip of black coffee.

Mr. Vino perked up and said in a deep voice: “Wines are constantly changing and people’s tastes are changing. There are trends in the wine business like there are in any other business. Merlot was hot as the desert sun a few years back, and now it’s as cold as the North Pole. Now the wines of choice are pinot noir and pinot grigio, which are both light and fruity wines when they’re made in the popular style.”

Lacy gave an enquiring look. “But should we care about such trends? I think it is our obligation to reflect on what wines work with our cuisine,” she said.

Mr. Vino nodded his head in agreement. “Of course, but it’s important to recognize that these trends do exist because the wine business doesn’t operate in a vacuum,” he said.

I added my two cents worth. “There is a tendency to dismiss the tastes of the general public – to think they don’t know anything. The most popular wines are still the least expensive: generic box wines, wine coolers and sweet blush wines like white zin. But if you look through all that, what the wine drinker is searching for is flavor. Whether the wines are sweet, light and fruity or have a big, knock-your-socks-off mouth feel, the search for flavor is what this business is all about.”

“So it is our obligation as restaurateurs to create wine lists that integrate the flavor of the cuisine and the wine,” Lacy added.

“Yes,” Mr. Vino said. “The search for flavor is the Holy Grail. That is what most fine-diners are looking for. And because of our experience tasting countless numbers of wines and understanding the menu, we can do that.”

“I don’t think most restaurateurs take that responsibility too seriously,” I said. “They follow trends blindly or simply don’t care enough about wine or their customers.”

Lacy shook her head sadly and said: “I’m afraid you’re right. Ninety percent of restaurants just don’t care.”

Lefty came to our table with a note and a bottle of wine. He handed the note to Mr. Vino.

Mr. Vino glanced at the note and said: “It’s from Chef Kenny. Something has come up and he has to cancel our dinner at Dali’s, but he says please take this bottle and have dinner at Chez Suave on the house.”

I looked at the bottle of Bordeaux 1999 Chateau Cheval Blanc, a great wine from a great vintage. Cheval Blanc is a premier grand cru classé from Saint-Emilion, a gravelly plateau region. Cheval Blanc is made with two-thirds aromatic cabernet franc and the balance merlot. Although the wine could age for another 10 years, I felt it was alright to enjoy the wine right now.

I saw Mr. Vino and Lacy’s faces light up with the first sip. The wine tasted of tar, black cherries and violets. It was a beautiful wine. After tasting the first sips of it, I thought we had determined its profile, but the wine got its second wind and came back with more flavors, which was a gorgeous and unexpected pleasure.

We had a wonderful dinner and Chef Kenny’s limo took us home after a wonderful evening.