If you grew up in Kentucky and your name was Todd, chances are you wound up with the nickname Toad. That became restaurateur Todd Williams’ fate after years of dealing with the vicissitudes of the restaurant and bar business in that state.

Whether because of the [toad]ious nickname or the tribulations of the food and beverage industry, Williams, later got into the wine biz. He represented the legendary Shafer Vineyards in San Francisco and became friends with former song-and-dance man, Rodney Strong, who is also known for championing Sonoma as Napa Valley’s equal in creating world-class wines.

Although Strong had sold his winery and much of his vineyards by the time he met Williams, he retained a few plush vineyards in the Russian River Valley, and the pair soon began making wine together – a collaboration that earned them the fond moniker “Toad and Badger,” after the classic children’s tale The Wind in the Willows.

One can imagine Toad and Badger’s conversations might have gone something like this:

Toad to Badger: “Hey, let’s make some wine!”

Badger to Toad: “What kind of wine?”

Toad to Badger: “Why, world-class, Sonoma Valley wine at affordable prices!”

(Toad knew how to tickle Badger’s fancy just so you see.)

And so Badger danced as he had never danced before, and the friends eagerly started Toad Hollow Vineyards.

There was, of course, no question as to what type of wine they would make. It would, of course, be chardonnay, the most planted wine variety in the valley. But what kind of chardonnay would it be?

Toad was adamant on this point. “A different chardonnay and a better chardonnay – one that is not all oak,” he exclaimed. “In fact, let’s make a chardonnay that uses no oak! It will be clean, crisp and delicious.”

Then Badger clapped his paws in approval: “Bravo, Toad. Bravo!” he cried.

And so began the legend of Toad Hollow.

It was a radical decision to make an unoaked California chardonnay in 1994, when thick and oaked was the very definition of chardonnay. But Toad was no follower. He leaped from the lily pad into the pond and came up swimmingly.

Until Toad and Badger partnered in wine, California chardonnay had been so masked in oak that it had lost the intrinsic beauty of the varietal. Toad Hollows chardonnay was a refreshing change and the initial 3,000 cases sold out.

Unfortunately, this left Toad and Badger with nothing to sell. But, luckily, Badger had friends in France who would gladly sell him wine, and so began Le Faux Frog portfolio.

Toad Hollow was back in business.

I tried the portfolio’s following current releases. First was a multi-vintage wine called Erik’s the Red Proprietary from Paso Robles. Erik’s is made with 18 different grape varietals, including cab franc, zinfandel and petite syrah, which comprise most of the wine’s ingredients. Then they throw in merlot, syrah, dolcetto, barbera, malbec, sangiovese – and the kitchen sink. The wine has a unique nose with all the grape varietals working in harmony and tickling the nostrils. Erik’s is big but not a Godzilla. Price: $13.99.

Next, I was happy to see a Paso Robles zinfandel in my glass, the 2004 Cacophony. It is rich, jammy and huge – just the kind of bursting-its-seams flavor you expect from Paso Robles. Price: $14.99.

I poured myself the famous 2005 Toad Hollow Chardonnay, Mendocino County, Francine’s selection. This chardonnay is a true beauty queen, incredibly smooth, with a delicate flavor of orange rind, hints of pineapple and peach. It is a very good example of Mendocino County white wine with crisp acids. Price: $12.99.

I also had two French imports from the Le Faux Frog portfolio. The first was a three-liter box pinot noir, the 2004 Vins de Pays d’Oc. This is an excellent everyday drinking wine and has a bit of complexity. It won’t make wine drinkers forget Pommard, but it’s very enjoyable. The three-liter box is equivalent to four bottles. Price: $24.99.

The next wine I popped was the bubbly Risque Methode Ancestrale – a tutti-fruity wine with good acids, sparkle and a pleasant sweetness. Price: $13.99.

It is with much sadness I report that the great Rodney Strong, our dear Badger, passed away last year. He believed that wine was the perfect blend of the earth and the arts. 2004 Rod’s Pride, Russian River Valley Reserve, was made in his honor. It’s a rich and beautiful pinot noir and features a young dancing frog, a tribute to Rod’s younger days as a Broadway dancer. Very limited.