So creamy and buttery is the cuisine of Northern India that you’d swear it comes from France. The exquisitely designed Royal India, which debuted last month downtown in what used to be the Bayou Bar & Grill, features magnificent Mughlai meals that largely phase out those familiar tongue-curling curries and vindaloos of the south.

Northern Indian fare traces its roots to Mughal cooks of the 16th century, who returned from Persia and Afghanistan flaunting manageably spiced kormas, richly marinated meat kabobs and fragrant rice preparations. The cuisine has earned international acclaim in modern culinary circles – by the time you take your second swallow of Royal India’s chow, you’ll understand why.

Brothers Sam and Jag Kambo present their native recipes from India’s northern region of Punjab. They’ve created a tranquil, airy atmosphere adorned with a handcrafted mahogany bar, a soothing waterfall and lovely imported décor that speaks of sophistication rather than gaudiness.

The clay tandoori oven comes into play starting with an appetizer of roasted chicken wings that are marinated for 36 hours in lemon, yogurt and spices. They’re brought to the table sizzling hot on an iron plate that imparts a final sheen of crispiness to the skins. Fortunately, my dining companion was vegetarian, so I didn’t have to resort to hoarding.

Another starter, Onion and Cabbage Bhaji fried in chickpea-beer batter, was the least exotic plate in our meal, although it took on more dimension when we dabbed pieces of the hodgepodge into the tamarind table chutney, a head-and-shoulders cut above all others with its fruity undertone that practically resembled apple butter.

Savory soups include Cream of Tomato simmered with cinnamon; an excellent lentil-based Dal Shorba that explodes with coarse herbs, garlic and mild peppers; and Exotic Mango Soup, which I feared would be too sweet, but it wasn’t. The fruit hovered courteously in the background against the addicting flavors of cumin and peppercorn.

The entrée menu is divided into buttery Curry Specialties, rich Royal Curries, Tandoori Specialties (meats and fish cooked at 800 degrees), and an accommodating vegetarian section that includes farmer’s cheese in a few of its dishes. With so many choices before our eyes, we deferred to the cordial Kambo brothers for some advice.

The Chicken Tikka Kabob came highly recommended, as did the Chicken Tikka Masala, which has also garnered wild raves by fellow foodies who visited previously. I chose the kabob, and for a few seconds my eyes rolled back into their sockets over how good the simple-looking chicken on a stick was. It, too, arrived in a sizzling cloud of steam. The yogurt-marinated meat offered a sharp spiciness that languished lovingly on the tongue, as exotic, unidentifiable spices kept the heat level at bay.

My companion went nuts over his main course as well – the butter-infused Makhanwala curry with vegetables (available also with chicken, lamb, shrimp or lobster). The curry sauce is richly appointed with smoked tomatoes, onions and fair doses of garlic and ginger. It’s as rich and heavy as the Vegetable Malai Kofta, another entrée we tried involving a creamy curry sauce using cashew paste that clings beautifully to light and springy “vegetable balls.”

I couldn’t say goodbye without trying northern India’s famous Butter Tarka, a curry of clarified butter infused with green onions, garlic, ginger and other spices. My protein of choice was shrimp, which was slightly overcooked but palatable. The sauce teamed better with the few pieces of ultra-fresh Panner Naan bread sitting at our table.

The restaurant rolls out its pride-and-joy recipes everyday in a lunch buffet consisting of several meat and vegetarian entrées and various samosas for $11 per person. We’re already plotting our return for the midday spread.

Great food quality and proficient service extended through our dessert course with a bowl of chilled Kheer Saffron rice pudding topped with pulverized almonds and shaved coconut. Also try the house’s Indian tea blended with cardamom and cloves, or an icy mojito made with sweet Indian rum. All in all, this is surely the kind of food and beverage that leaves you feeling like royalty.