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dining out
A walk through the aisles
Published Thursday, 06-Sep-2007 in issue 1028
Product: Claim Jumper Restaurant Country Fried Chicken
Description: Frozen dinner containing a battered chicken breast, white gravy, mashed potatoes and a quartered cob of corn
Preparation: Microwave on high for 5 to 9 minutes, then microwave separately the gravy packet on high for 1 to 2 minutes.
High points: You’re spared the “oink, oink” comments because the portion size is significantly less voluminous than what you’re served in the namesake restaurant. The mashed potatoes lean toward firm, and the small cob of corn is slightly less mealy compared to that in other frozen meals.
Low points: Chicken breast cooks unevenly, resulting in hardened edges that gradually lead to a semi-moist center. The batter is salty, and the white gravy has about as much character as flour and water.
Average Retail Price: $3.99
Availability: Major grocery stores
Product: Juanitas Nacho Cheese Sauce (medium)
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Description: Fifteen-ounce can of cheese sauce made with whey, hydrogenated soybean oil, cultured cheddar cheese, tomato paste, jalapeno juice, preservatives and coloring
Preparation summary: Heat desired amount in microwave or stovetop until hot
High points: There’s a smidgen of “real cheese” in the product, albeit the fourth ingredient listed. And the sauce isn’t as watery as other commercial queso.
Low points: That glassy sheen you see is from too much oil in the composition, which lingers defiantly on the tongue no matter how many abrasive tortilla chips pass through your mouth.
Average Retail Price: $2.39
Availability: Major grocery stores and Mexican markets
Product: Espo’s Cucina Dolce Orange Cream Gelato
Description: Part of a line of frozen gelato and “sorbetto” products introduced by chef and company owner Jen Espo in Denver
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Preparation summary: Ready to eat
High points: Think high-quality 50/50 bars – decadently more creamy with a sturdier flavor of natural orange from zest.
Low points: Pricey and a dieter’s enemy. A four-ounce serving (easy to exceed) will cost you nearly 200 calories and 25 milligrams of cholesterol.
Average Retail Price: $4.99 per pint
Availability: Major grocery stores
Product: Trader Joe’s Breakfast Patties
Description: Frozen “sausage” patties made of soy protein, wheat gluten and spices.
Preparation summary: Cover with plastic wrap and microwave for 40 seconds to one minute, depending on number of patties. Or, in a conventional oven, place on baking sheet and cook for about 10 minutes.
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High points: You can scarf down a couple extra pancakes because of the fat you’ve forfeited eating these, which rack up only 4 grams per patty opposed to 12 grams if it were pork sausage.
Low points: Great for vegetarians who forgot about the wonderful attributes of sage, thyme and rosemary in real breakfast sausage. These patties lack those flavors, and they are over-textured to mimic lots of fake gristle.
Average Retail Price: $1.99
Availability: Trader Joe’s
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