Azul is like the “other white meat” of La Jolla when you compare it to places like The Marine Room or George’s at the Cove. All three provide sweeping views of La Jolla Shores and appeal to patrons because of their upscale comfort and coastal cuisine. The only difference is that Azul hasn’t been around long enough to become fully synonymous with elegant oceanside dining.

The four-year-old restaurant is an offspring of the Brigantine Family of Restaurants, but carries a hint of rustic Mediterranean blood in its construction. Stone walls are interspersed with built-in display cases containing a hodgepodge of colorful plates that befit a homey European inn. A fireplace mantle twinkles with tea lights, and arched portals create a welcoming invite into the handsome bar and dining areas. Add to the scheme a dominating view of the sometimes-azul sea and that fantasy vacation to the Greek islands suddenly begins to swell.

At the heart of things sits a commodious wood-fired oven weighing 14,000 pounds, in which various meats and fish are cooked at extraordinary high heat to seal in their flavors and juices. But my dining companion and I started out with a couple of appetizers that required a little stovetop action instead.

Fresh and succulent were the Warm Butter Poached Prawns, although they failed to soak in the flavor of the butter as well as the surrounding orange-chili reduction. An attractive timbale of cucumber and celery root on the plate proved more exciting. Also, three pan-seared Sea Scallops marinated in Cointreau were big and sweet, but they, too, carried a simplistic taste despite their encirclement by a sauce made of blood oranges and Thai curry.

Our second course was juicy red and utterly delicious — an Heirloom Tomato Salad with fresh arugula, baby spinach and basil pesto — plus a wide bowl of Country Tomato Soup that I’m guessing was made with those locally grown heirlooms. A dollop of crème fraiche in the middle added verve and smoothness.

The unhurried pace between courses is just what we preferred from our cozy window table, allowing us time to nurse some dynamite cocktails. My dining companion, who is among the most finicky in the world when it comes to Lemon Drops, rated Azul’s sweet-and-pulpy blend as the best. This, while I became increasingly limber over a dashing Skyy Vodka Martini made with Blue Curacao and fresh lime juice.

The companion looked to the wood-fired oven when ordering her entrée — a generous slab of Roasted Northern Halibut dressed up with farmhouse vegetables and two thick wedges of polenta, all sitting prettily in a puddle of red bell pepper nage. Yet, with a strong supporting cast of ingredients, including a dab of olive nicoise on top of the fish, the meal bordered generally on the bland, which is a common downfall when halibut is involved.

Conversely, my Pan-Roasted Double Pork Chop had everything going for it — green beans, sumptuous whipped potatoes infused with crème fraiche and a moat of caramelized onion broth that mimicked in flavor a robust Hunter’s gravy. We both loved it.

Azul’s menu changes daily in order to keep up with the seasonal harvests of local farmers and fishermen. On this particular night we perused items such as Grilled Asparagus, Bartlett Pear and Walnut Salad, Grilled Veal Porterhouse Chop, Green Peppercorn-Crusted Salmon over Roasted Garlic and Grilled Pacific Swordfish with Peruvian Potatoes.

Our desserts marked a fine conclusion to our visit. The Chocolate Fudge Cake was light in both color and texture and came with some rather terrific vanilla bean gelato. Even better was the Lime Tart, adorned with fresh sweet berries to counterbalance the intense citrus filling.

Azul is a jewel in terms of quality, service and ambience — and perhaps a tad less pricey than its established highbrow neighbors. On Wednesdays, for instance, most bottles of wine are half price. And it also offers a California-Mediterranean tapas buffet for $12.99 during lunch hours.

This is definitely a place to keep in mind when you’re searching the roster of local restaurants that point out to the water.