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dining out
What’s between your bread?
Published Thursday, 28-Feb-2008 in issue 1053
What fits between two slices of bread?
Depending who you ask, the answer includes a plethora of fillers and condiments that could stun the stomachs of those who grew up eating ham and Swiss on rye.
According to food historians, the first recorded sandwiches were supposedly crafted by rabbis in the Middle East, around 1 B.C., when they would place chopped nuts, apples and spices between two matzos. The modern sandwich, however, didn’t emerge until 1762 in London, when John Montague, the fourth Earl of Sandwich, demanded that plates of bread, cheese and meat be brought to him while he gambled over card games. Yet in order to keep one hand free, he would clasp the ingredients with his bread and continue playing. Other players caught on; thus giving the “sandwich” its name and placing Montague in the annals of culinary history.
Today, the tastes and whims of world cultures dictate numerous varieties of sandwiches, from a simple baguette filled with brie made popular by the French and Cal-Asian ahi tuna sandwiches with wasabi mayo to Italian beef hoagies and those famous Cuban gubanos filled with roasted pork, mustard and chopped pickles.
Yet since the invention of Wonder Bread in 1930 and the subsequent proliferation of artisan bakeries, sandwich making in the U.S. has progressed down a winding path driven wildly by our imaginations.
Consider the iconic PB&J, which originated in the meal-ration kits of World War II soldiers. It’s taken some bizarre turns. Instead of jelly, I’ve seen people augment peanut butter with everything from mayonnaise, bananas, chocolate and even pickles – quirky replacements born usually out of spontaneous invention when kitchen larders run low.
In this gustatory renaissance of the all-American sandwich, cold-cuts like bologna and liverwurst have taken a backseat in favor of healthier or more gourmet choices. Today’s bread fillings can include everything from mock egg salad and vegetarian sloppy Joes to assorted fresh fish served on bolero rolls at Blue Water Seafood Market & Grill or sweetbreads layered with foie gras mousse and bacon at Currant American Brasserie.
The art of sandwich making has gained considerable steam over the past several years. Sandwiches are no longer dictated by tradition or budgetary restraints, but rather an array of personal tastes that have resulted in compatible ingredient combinations unimaginable to consumers of past generations.
Below is a list of favorite, modern-day sandwiches I’ve encountered at parties, restaurants and in recipe books.
Broiled pear and Swiss
Combine one-quarter cup of peeled and sliced pears with a dash of cinnamon and sugar. Place a slice of Swiss cheese on each side of two toasted bread slices and arrange pears over the cheese. Broil open faced for five to eight minutes and then combine the slices into sandwich form.
Cucumber and apricot
Combine a couple ounces of cream cheese with fresh basil and a dash of salt. Spread on one side of each bread slice, preferably whole wheat bread. Layer onto one of the slices thinly cut cucumbers and fresh apricots. Add a few pinches of arugula and top with remaining bread slice.
Grilled Tuscan
Drizzle olive oil on two pieces of French bread and fill with slices of fresh tomato and onion, plus raw spinach and basil leaves, a half-teaspoon of roasted garlic and a wedge of fresh mozzarella cheese. Grill each side for 5 minutes on skillet over medium heat.
Swiss Fondue Sandwich
Using a French baguette, cut off a four-inch section and split it lengthwise. Layer one side of the bread with three thin slices each of Emmanthaler (or domestic Swiss) and Gruyere cheese. Spritz a quarter wedge of lemon over the other half of the bread and spread stone-ground mustard on it. Combine the two bread slices and bake at 375 degrees on a cookie sheet until the cheese melts.
Ham with butter, havarti and zesty pickle
Spread a thin layer of softened butter on two slices of seeded sourdough baguette, cut lengthwise. Add a single layer of Stackers Zesty Dill Pickles over one side of the bread and a single layer of ham and havarti cheese over the other. Combine the bread slices and press firmly on the crown for about 10 seconds. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature for about 20 minutes, allowing the bread to soak up the flavors of the ingredients.
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