The food at Martinis Above Fourth used to be merely a means for sobering up after carousing in the once glittery atmosphere that appeared fossilized in the 1980s. Patrons would gladly chuck their gourmet appetites for the sake of drinking on the coveted second-floor patio amid lip synchers fueling the camp from inside a cavernous-like dining room. Rarely did you ever hear anything about the meals.

Martinis of the 21st century has successfully combined the old with the new, putting to rest second-rate dinners while steadily ushering in diverse entertainment on certain nights of the week within a modernly appointed lounge motif. And the martinis are feistier and more delicious than ever.

After changing hands in 2004, the dining room saw the installation of eye-catching metalwork concealing the kitchen, along with new carpeting, sensuous Manhattan-style lighting, and wispy sheers draped over mirrored walls. The commodious, smoke-friendly patio serviced by an indoor/outdoor bar still remains a desirable hangout, though resulting in un-stylish plastic panels that were put up to block wind and apparently protect neighbors from noise.

Complementing the list of nearly 60 high-octane martinis, some coined after San Diego’s legendary drag entertainers, is a fine-dining menu authored by Chef Jason Williams, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America. Compared to my visit a few years back when Williams first came on board to pioneer this new culinary era at Martinis, his kitchen prowess has gained significant strength through seasonal creativity and his established relationships with top-notch food purveyors.

Piping hot buns served with savory olive tapenade kicked off our meal, serving as stomach liners before sloshing down our libations – a Blushing Babette cosmo with a sweet cloying finish for my companion, and the Ruby Red Slipper appealing to my love of all things grapefruit. The latter is made with Findlandia grapefruit vodka, red grapefruit juice and a touch of Triple Sec. Beautiful.

From the category titled “succulent starters,” we engaged in a couple of Christmas-y tasting dishes that I’m guessing will soon become vestiges of the chef’s current winter menu. Grilled asparagus cloaked in cranberry chutney is well conceived, resulting in a positive flavor outcome from the bitter vegetable teaming up with the tart fruit. Potato sticks sprinkled over the spears added texture, but played a vague role on the taste buds.

Generous bursts of cinnamon came forth in roasted pork tenderloin, which gave us six tournedos of luxuriant meat perched separately on slices of green apple.

“It tastes like apple pie with pork in it,” I said to my companion, who, compared to me, can better embrace sugar and spice and everything nice in non-dessert dishes.

My favorite starter course was seared scallops featuring a sauce made of light sour cream that’s thinned out a tad with brined artichokes and their liquid. The effect is similar to the refreshing pith that cucumbers give to plain yogurt in tzatziki sauce. Draped atop sweet, plump scallops as these, the chef brings new life to an otherwise common dish. Sharing plate space was frisee lettuce tossed in a highly stimulating lemon vinaigrette.

With our martinis now half consumed, and our attentive waiter assuring us that “you’ll be in your happy place in no time,” we slid into Southwest chicken soup sporting aromatic peppers, tomatoes, sour cream and plenty of poultry to give it the hardiness of chili con carne. An excellent “bread soup” we soon discovered when dipping in our table rolls. We equally lucked out with a mixed green salad speckled with cranberries and dressed in champagne vinaigrette. Fried potato sticks appeared again, serving as an effectual flavor garnish this time around.

My companion was sold on the chef’s signature entrée, bacon-wrapped filet mignon stuffed densely with blue cheese. The mondo steak, served in a puddle of mustard-Cabernet reduction, smacked of intensity as we well imagined. My only complaint, which rested on the lap of my bloodhound companion, was that the blue cheese inside didn’t have a chance to turn warm and creamy because he ordered it “very rare.” Given the filet’s Midwest pedigree, it would’ve turned out no less supple if cooked medium-rare.

We shared no disagreements, however, over a side of au gratin potatoes held together with lots of Gruyere, one of the cheeses used in Swiss fondue. The chef teases up the spuds with a dash of horseradish, adding a mysteriously addicting tang that rendered us oblivious to the carb overload.

Appearing like a healthy spa meal was my Mediterranean shrimp farfalle involving a colorful mix of bowtie pasta tossed with sun-dried tomatoes (more sour than sweet), chopped artichokes, wilted spinach, feta cheese and butterflied gulf shrimp. The ingredients are kept juicy in a thin broth of rice wine vinegar and honey. It’s one of the newest items on the menu and a perfect precursor for lighter springtime eating.

A few desserts are made in-house, including crème brulee. After taking a hiatus from this omnipresent offering, I was mildly contented returning to Martinis’ classic, yet over-custardy version. The caramelized banana tart was much better and less tiresome, providing a swell ending to these greatly improved meals and martinis that are capable of keeping you in lounge mode for a while.

For a current schedule of entertainment and special events, visit the Web site at: www.martinisabovefourth.com.