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A book for winos – beginner, intermediate or expert
Published Thursday, 24-Apr-2008 in issue 1061
The joys, mystique and snobbery surrounding wine drinking are enthusiastically uncovered in the witty, recently released book titled Red, White and Drunk All Over written by “participatory journalist” Natalie MacLean.
The author speaks refreshingly to winos of all levels, setting the book apart from so many other tomes that require in-the-know wine knowledge before cracking into their first chapters. MacLean tells us, for example, where wine meets its toughest food matches – a lifesaver for dinner hosts and restaurant goers who may not know the difference between a toasty chardonnay and a jammy petite syrah.
In a chapter devoted solely to food pairing, she tackles vegetables, pointing us to varietals that compliment things like squash, potatoes and pumpkin. For them, we’re advised to reach for oaky whites; Californian, Chilean and Australian chardonnays that sing to the foods’ creamy, buttery flavors. And while the Italians have long figured out which wines pair with chin-dripping tomatoes, the majority of us likely don’t know that the subtle fruit aromas contained in pinots and juicy reds such as barbera and dolcetto are the way to go. The chapter continues pairing wines to everything from spicy dishes and take-out grub to frozen foods, and of course, cheese.
For those who hang on the flowery adjectives and numerical scores doled out by wine reviewers, which MacLean says, “carry so much weight that they move the market,” the author sheds light on the differing review styles adopted by wine guru Robert Parker and his British counterpart, Jancis Robinson.
In the book, the two respected wine writers face off vigorously against one another over a red wine from Bordeaux made by a controversial businessman. The saga unfolds into a snooty battle over scoring, with Parker sticking to a point system that Robinson regards as an “American fascination with numbers.” Controversies surrounding Parker’s power within the wine industry are duly raised, which will give readers more or less reason to follow his cues.
MacLean’s crisp delivery about all things wine digs deeper than a general overview on the subject, yet spares us the dry textbook ramblings that other wine writers haven’t learned to overcome. As an accredited sommelier and wine store employee in New York and San Francisco, she extols the screw cap, advises us on how to expectorate at wine tastings and suggests how much to tip when throwing down $500 on a bottle.
Even better, she guides consumers through the decision process when faced with a wall of labels in retail outlets, equipping us with confidence and knowledge rather than fear and naivete.
The 320-page book, published by Bloomsbury, is available on major web sites and in commercial bookstores. It sells for $14.95.
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