Who would’ve thought that pollen from the Foeniculum vulgare plant, otherwise known as fennel, would hit the spice racks with the thrust of a sudden sneeze attack?

The executive chef at Marine Room, Bernard Guillas, teaches us that fennel pollen titillates the senses with its snappy anise flavor more dramatically than what the bulbs or seeds from fennel can do on their own. Like a modern-day spice route, demand for the powerful substance is growing as it voyages down from Sugar Ranch in Central California, and then allayed with things like plum powder, annato seeds, cardamom and fleur de sel. The result is a line of eight unique blends called Chef Bernard Spices, packaged in quaint one-ounce tins and tailored for fairy dusting recipes from A to Z. The blends are available at all Jonathan’s locations, Great News in Pacific Beach or via the Web sites: chefbernard.com or fennelpollen.com.

Below, Guillas discusses fennel pollen and shares some secrets about using spices.

Gay & Lesbian Times: How did you discover fennel pollen?

Bernard Guillas: I read about it in a magazine in France while visiting my mom several years ago. I did the research and found that it was grown at Sugar Ranch in Goshen, Calif., so I called and asked for a sample and really loved the product. I blended it with my own spices and ended up collaborating with the ranch owner to launch the line.

GLT: Did other chefs use fennel pollen much before you discovered it?

BG: No. It was more expensive than saffron per ounce back then and most of the fennel pollen at the time was coming only from Italy.

GLT: Has it since caught on among local chefs?

BG: Very much so. Last year, we ran out of it for two months. Now the company is growing it in Oregon as well to keep up with the demand. And we were just picked up by Sysco’s gourmet line. It’s the new hot and sexy spice on the market and it’s very intense. A little goes a long way.

GLT: Is it hypoallergenic?

BG: Probably. There’s nothing to sneeze at.

GLT: Name three dishes that sing to fennel pollen.

BG: It’s great in proteins, vegetables and even desserts. Among my favorites are when it’s mixed with butter and fleur de sol, which makes for an excellent spread on bread. Hericot vert with shallots, melted butter and pure fennel pollen is delicious.

GLT: Most overused spice in restaurant kitchens?

BG: Ground hot chili peppers because people don’t know how to use them properly; fleur de sol because it doesn’t dissolve well when cooking with it; and cumin because it’s very dense and pungent and you can’t mask it over when you use too much. As with a lot of spices, what goes in the pot, stays in the pot. Also, rosemary can really mess up everything because it can overtake the flavor of stocks and sauces. And it changes the flavor of a particular recipe every time that dish is reheated.

GLT: Aside from fennel pollen, what other obscure spices or blends do you incorporate into your dishes?

BG: Dukkah, which is a blend of star anise, sesame seeds, thyme, hazelnuts, cumin, chilies and sea salt, used often for proteins and dips in Egypt. I’m now using it at the restaurant for wild Baja prawns. And suneli — a mix of walnuts, merigold powder, dried parsely, mint leaves, corriander and sea salt that I use on rack of lamb.

GLT: Having grown up in Brittany, France, what spices incite childhood memories?

BG: Cloves, bay leaves and thyme and cayenne pepper. My grandmother made a paste from them and applied it to lamb or beef pot roasts that she made every Wednesday. I was able to smell it while playing outside with friends. Wow!