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dining out
A walk through the aisles
Published Thursday, 05-Jun-2008 in issue 1067
Product: Tostitos Creamy Salsa
Description: New jarred salsa by Tostitos made with tomato puree, Canola and/or sunflower oils, jalapeno peppers, onions and cilantro
Preparation summary: Ready to serve
High points: The salsa clings to tortilla chips better than queso. Generous bits of jalapeno peppers provide a hot and tangy punch. Tastes good as a sandwich spread too.
Low points: There isn’t an iota of real cream in the product. The salsa gets its thick, creamy texture from emulsified oils, lactic acid and tapioca starch. And that pretty salmon bisque color originates from yellow, red and blue food dyes.
Average Retail Price: $3.49
Availability: Major grocery stores
Product: Pasta Roni, Garlic & Olive Oil Vermicelli
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Description: Dry vermicelli pasta and powdered seasoning containing garlic and olive oil flavors
Preparation summary: Boil one and three-quarters cup of water with two tablespoons of butter or margarine. Stir in pasta and seasoning mix and simmer on medium heat for eight to 10 minutes.
High points: Real olive oil will taste orgasmic the next time you drizzle it over boiled pasta.
Low points: Imagine Lipton soup mix sprinkled over gluey spaghetti.
Average Retail Price: $2.29
Availability: Major grocery stores
Product: Wolfgang Puck Free Range Roasted Chicken Stock
Description: Natural, low-sodium chicken stock sold in one-quart, cardboard cartons with plastic spouts
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Preparation summary: Use microwave or stovetop to heat, or add directly into soups and sauces.
High points: Richer in flavor compared to other brands, less salty and preservative free
Low points: The severely outdated photograph of a young Wolfgang Puck with a swollen cranium on the package doesn’t exactly put me in the mood for chicken soup. It’s a case of bad branding.
Average Retail Price: $4.29
Availability: Major grocery stores
Product: Trader Giotto’s Balsamic Vinegar of Modena
Description: Wood-aged balsamic vinegar contained in a one-pint glass bottle
Preparation summary: Ready to use
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High points: For so-called Italian balsamic, it’s very inexpensive
Low points: Just because the vinegar is indigenous to Modena, Italy doesn’t mean that it escapes the addition of caramel used for achieving a dark color. After comparing the product to premium brands of less acidic, extended-aged balsamics, this basically turns out to be nothing more than artificially blackened, red wine vinegar produced in bulk.
Average Retail Price: $2.29
Availability: Trader Joe’s
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