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Sky Room on the 10th floor of La Jolla’s La Valencia Hotel offers impeccable service, coveted wines by the glass and bottle, and labor-intensive dishes created by Chef Vaughan G. Mabee.
dining out
Cheers and Jeers for 2008
Published Thursday, 25-Dec-2008 in issue 1096
Best Fine Dining
Sky Room
Look no further than the 10th floor of La Jolla’s La Valencia Hotel for San Diego’s most formal and intimate dining experience. With only about a dozen tables in the place, the Sky Room offers impeccable service, coveted wines by the glass and bottle, and labor-intensive dishes created by Chef Vaughan G. Mabee. The views of La Jolla Cove serve as the icing on this big pink cake (the landmark hotel’s exterior color). www.gaylesbiantimes.com/links/1096
Most Formal High Tea
Grand Del Mar
Anglophiles can spare themselves an overseas trip to The Ritz while stiffening their baby fingers at Grand Del Mar’s stately “Library” for an afternoon repast of caffeine, finger sandwiches, dainty pastries and sherry. The high tea is available from 2-4 p.m., Fridays through Sundays. And the cost for this highly pampering experience ranges from $30 to $56, depending on the number of courses you choose. www.gaylesbiantimes.com/links/1096
Funkiest Chinese Restaurant
Mandarin House
A windowless dining room void of décor marks the spot for some decent Mandarin-Szechwan meals, plus unusual items such as salt-pepper chicken and flaming “volcano” cocktails served in outdated Polynesian urns. From the outside, Mandarin House looks forsaken. Inside, you’ve entered a time tunnel that throws you back to 1980. www.gaylesbiantimes.com/links/1096
Lousiest Italian
Vesuvio Gourmet
Under its recent non-Italian ownership, the restaurant once known for decent pizza and pasta has turned run-of-the-mill at best. In a recent visit with several friends, items such as ravioli, manicotti and Italian subs lacked passion in their construction and balance in their flavors. The pizza and salads sucked. And service was ridiculously disjointed. www.gaylesbiantimes.com/links/1096
Most Annoying Food Trend
Yogurt shops
Heaven help me the day I start spending my weekend evenings among the bored and boring at places like Pinkberry or Yog-art, which have become breeding grounds for cliques of people who adopt trendier-than-thou attitudes by simply spoon-feeding themselves minimal flavors of non-fat “cream.” Why does the mood become so serious and self-righteous when yogurt is involved? I don’t get it.
Best Breakfast-Lunch Spot
Caffé Carpe Diem
No, it’s not Richard Walker’s Pancake House. The lines there are too long, and the food is too lead-weight. Caffe Carpe Diem in North Park offers far more excitement in its early-day fare: global coffees made in an exclusive Clover machine; omelets revealing Turkish sausage and Romanian cheese; creative paninis accompanied by herby tabbouleh. Or if you’re looking for the best croque-monsieur in town, ask for the Mister Crunchy. www.gaylesbiantimes.com/links/1096
Biggest Rip Off
Fondue Fusion and Bistro
Don’t let the winter weather coax you into fondue here. Dippers such as meats, fish and veggies are tightly portioned, and they ring up a pretty penny once you start upgrading. The cheese fondues are frugally served as well. They’re prepared tableside by a staff that appears burnt out from having to explain how this all works. www.gaylesbiantimes.com/links/1096
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