In Tokyo it’s a bustling nightlife district crawling with fashionable partygoers. In La Jolla and Palm Springs, the name Roppongi marks the spot where Asian-fusion cuisine practically explodes with all the color and dash of a neon-lit thoroughfare.

The not-so-new concept of scrambling Asian flavors with North American and European nuances seems almost resurrected at the four-year-old Roppongi in La Jolla. Chef Stephen B. Window stretches and bends the imagination with numerous tapas and choice entrées that embody every taste sensation under the sun. And now this tsunami of fine edibles, along with an Asian noodle bar, is rolling into Palm Springs with the opening of a second Roppongi at the new Spa Resort Casino.

Here, my dining companion — who has navigated through a good portion of the menu in previous visits — suggested that we rollick through the swollen category of tapas instead of choosing single entrées. Variety proved to be the spice of life, as we began with a stunning mound of Crispy Buttermilk Onion Rings drizzled with an orgasmic wasabi-garlic aioli. Then came the Ancho Beef Moo Shu Wraps, dressed up with Hoisin and horseradish-cream sauces. Whatever continent we were on, it looked and tasted like paradise.

A word of advice when ordering: the more convoluted a menu item reads — the better its outcome. Our Pan-Seared Sea Scallops on Potato Pancakes, for instance, hit another high note in “perfect fusion.” In this case, a touch of the Mediterranean from sun-dried tomatoes gets mixed in with a Thai-basil Hollandaise to give these plump crustaceans their delightfully tangled flavor.

And when Asia meets Mexico somewhere in France, the payoff is a Mongolian Shredded Duck Quesadilla served with a spunky Asian-spiced guacamole. The confit-style duck is cooked with star anise, rosemary and thyme — a priceless miscellany of seasonings that comes off as intelligent rather than zany.

Ordinary, straightforward fare simply doesn’t nest in these well-groomed confines. For example, full entrées include things like Halibut Filet with Lemon and Pumpkin Seed Curry Oil, or Spicy Orange-Lemon Chicken and Marinated Pork Chop with Apple Anise Stuffing. Other tapas include Spicy Kung Pao Calamari Steak with Hazelnuts, Pan-Seared Foie Gras crowned with Japanese Pear and Orange Tamarind Sauce or Dumplings with Chicken and Chili Scallion Sauce.

Portions are fairly substantial. About three to four tapas suffice if you’re a twosome in search of variety. And they’re half price from 4:00 to 6:00 p.m. every day! And I would be remiss to not mention the soups — Fresh Tomato garnished with cilantro pesto and feta cheese, and a Thai Curry Coconut that closely resembles Thom Yum. Both were extraordinarily pleasing.

Drink choices lend themselves to a globetrotting wine list filled with reds, whites and blends dating back to 1980. But who can resist those novel Sake-tinis? If the Lemon Kiss or Raspberry Passion versions seem too fruity, then try the String of Pearls, a feisty blend of vodka and sake garnished with none other than pearl onions.

The dessert selection is cut-and-dried, as if to settle down the creative tempo at the end of it all. There’s Lemon Crème Brulée, Sticky English Toffee Pudding and a Chocolate Sundae, to name a few. I opted for the Rustic Apple Tarte made with French-style puff pastry, which left me perfectly sated.

Service is polished and friendly, and seating options are as diverse as the food. In addition to booths, there are low tables, high tables and one with a fire pit in the center, which is located on the attractive outdoor patio.

Roppongi is clearly a place where choices abound. A little bit of indecision plays agreeably into the experience.