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The Better Half in Hillcrest
dining out
News for Foodies
Published Thursday, 19-Mar-2009 in issue 1108
Halves, wholes and beyond
The Better Half in Hillcrest has revamped its wine program by departing from a strictly half-bottle wine list, which now includes vinos by the glass, whole bottles and magnums. The restaurant’s new wine director, Andrew Soto, focuses on labels hailing from small, family-owned wineries, bringing to the table unique varietals such as Nebbiolo, Cabernet Franc Rose and a Zinfandel-Petite Sirah blend. Particularly noteworthy are wines found on the restaurant’s “classic list” of 750ml bottles – the star being a 1975 Heitz Cellar, Martha’s Vineyard (old school Napa Valley) for $500. But wine lovers on a budget need not fear, as the new program includes plenty of affordable labels as well. 127 University Ave., 619-543-9340.
Sushi sensation
The ever-popular Sushi Ota has extended its wizardry to Hane Sushi in Bankers Hill. The new restaurant offers top-quality creations and an ambitious sake selection, served in a minimally decorated atmosphere. 2760 Fifth Ave., 619-260-1411.
Kudos and complaints
The slices at Ciro’s Pizzeria next door to Universal are dangerously addictive. The pies are made with fresh dough, homemade tomato sauce and buttery whole-milk mozzarella that’s hand-grated. Few thin-crust pizzas boast this much good, chewy texture. Nearly 10 different varieties of slices are available at any given time, all priced at $2 50 apiece.
Hurray for La Fuente taco shop across the street for investing in a fresh paint job. The eatery now looks 10 times more inviting – and you’ve been a longtime favorite for chili relleno burritos, carnitas salads and rolled potato tacos. But how about tackling that stinky dumpster and rotting grease trap in your back parking lot?
The best lettuce wraps I’ve discovered are at The Marble Room during a re-visit since reviewing them in January. A single order gives you a bowl of butter lettuce along with plops of raw, cubed ahi, preserved lemons, roasted red jalapeños and shredded seaweed.
This year’s home-cooked corned beef was a disaster, thanks to the so-called “superior” flat-cut roast I purchased from Siesel’s in Bay Park, which is affiliated with Iowa Meat Farms in Mission Gorge. Despite a three-hour braising, the four-pound hunk of suet, which cost $20, yielded only 10 percent chewable meat. So it’s back to Costco or Trader Joe’s next St. Paddy’s Day.
Cocoa infusion
A three-course dinner incorporating chocolate throughout is scheduled at 6:30 and 8:30, March 21, at 4, 6 and 8 p.m., March 22, at Eclipse Chocolat. The menu features spanakopita with white chocolate and dill, beef and lamb kafta with cocoa nibs and orange blossom baklava with dark chocolate sauce. The cost is $25 per person. Reservations are required. 2121 El Cajon Blvd., 619-578-2984.
Up in Rancho Santa Fe…
Sommelier and former Wine Lover manager Jayson Knack has opened the 3,000-square-foot Decanter Wine Lounge in Rancho Santa Fe’s new Cielo Village. More than 200 wines are available by the glass, along with a daily menu of farm-to-table fare. Look for a review in the Gay & Lesbian Times soon. 18025 Calle Ambiente, 858-756-9333.
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