Most of us have been told by our Dermatologist or Aesthetician that we need to exfoliate more. What exactly is exfoliation, and can we do it too much? Exfoliation removes dead skin and dirt, keeping your skin cleaner and healthier. Regular exfoliation can create glowing, smooth skin, but if you exfoliate too much, your skin can be damaged. How often exfoliation is recommended depends on a number of factors, including what you exfoliate with, your skin type, and your general skin health.

As a general rule, the softer an exfoliant is, the more often you can use it. Some exfoliating scrubs are so gentle that you can use them on a daily basis; many exfoliants designed for the face, for example, are soft enough for daily use. Coarse scrubs that are extremely grainy should be used no more than once a week, while scrubs that fall somewhere in between can be used two to three days a week. If you have oily skin, you can generally exfoliate two to three days a week without any ill effects. Obviously, you should skip the exfoliation if your skin feels dry or irritated, or if it looks red and flaky. People with more dry, delicate skin should exfoliate one to two times a week, ideally with a gentle exfoliating scrub that will not irritate their skin.

There are several different types of exfoliants available on the market today. Most common are the ones we see at the local drugstore that have little grains in them that physically remove dead skin with a physical rubbing motion. Chemical exfoliants (chemical peels) work by dissolving the “glue” that holds the skin cells together. Now, not every chemical peel will make you look like Samantha from Sex in the City! Another popular exfoliation is the Pumpkin peel. This peel uses Enzymes to speed up the breakdown of Keratin (the protein in our skin).

If you’re not sure about whether or not you can exfoliate with a particular product, test it on your inner elbow, where the skin is especially tender. If the scrub causes irritation, it indicates that it may not be a good choice. If you don’t experience irritation, you can safely use that product to exfoliate on a regular basis.

Your skin health also plays a factor in how often you should exfoliate. If you suffer from certain skin conditions, you may want to ease back on your exfoliation schedule, especially if your dermatologist or aesthetician recommends the use of gentle skin care products only. If you’ve recently been sunburned, had a chemical peel or other such procedures, you should also avoid exfoliating until you start to peel, because you don’t want to pull new skin off while it is trying to heal.

Benefits of exfoliation include making the skin smoother, cleaning clogged pores, improving the skin’s ability to retain moisture, and stimulating blood flow. Cons of exfoliation include hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation from over exfoliation, sensitive skin, and peeling (short term).

When you exfoliate, less is more. Use only a small amount of exfoliant and take the time to really scour your skin (let the scrubbies do the work and do not stretch your skin); if you take a large dollop, the exfoliant will grind against itself more than your skin, and you will not receive any benefit. After exfoliating, always apply a layer of moisturizer to keep your skin healthy, supple and moist.