Every once in a blue moon you stumble upon a restaurant that radically defies San Diego’s late-night dining universe — or should I say the lack of it. As everyone knows, the pickings here are remarkably slim if you can’t handle greasy rolled tacos or fake-cheese omelets after the stroke of 9:00 p.m. And of the more decent places to dine at that hour, chances are great that you’ll end up surrounded by stacked chairs with a broom or mop nipping at your ankles before the end of the meal.

Vesuvio Gourmet is like a child that you can’t put to bed. It’s where breathing souls gather in the wee hours of the night (until 2:00 a.m. on weekdays; 3:00 a.m. on weekends) to eat notably good Italian food without worrying about a little bloating the next day.

The roomy interior is dominated by two enormous murals of Italian peasant life, which span sizable booths, cherry wood tables and a full bar placed at a comfortable distance from the dining area. Overall, the aesthetics strike a pleasant mismatch to the outside blight of El Cajon Boulevard.

Similar to its sister restaurant (Taste of Italy), the kitchen cranks out a plump selection of pizzas, calzones, sandwiches and dinner entrées that are available no matter what time you visit. With nearly everything we tried here, the essence of old-fashioned Italian cooking was expertly captured.

The Caprese appetizer, for example, is a must. It goes a step beyond the standard version with the addition of lean proscuitto ham tucked between slices of raw mozzarella and juicy tomatoes. Fresh ribbon-cut basil and sweet balsamic vinegar provide the necessary finish.

Our dinner salads, on the other hand, were overdressed with the house’s tart vinaigrette, which my dining companion mopped up with a wedge of savory Bruschetta di Pomodoro — buttery garlic bread topped with tomatoes, garlic and melted cheese. And for once, a palatable potato soup that wasn’t dense and pasty, but served instead as a thin broth infused with celery, onion and parsley.

Even more impressive was the companion’s Eggplant Parmesan, which many restaurants destroy by slicing the eggplant too thick. Here, it is tender and sliced thin — and coated with just the right amount of breading. The entrée was topped with a delectable bright red tomato sauce that also crowned a side portion of excellent cheese tortellini.

Another sauce option is the Arrabiatta, swooped up with Pinot Grigio, basil, garlic and perhaps a few too many mushrooms. Still, the concoction paired swimmingly with my half-n-half order of jumbo Cheese Ravioli and Capellini (angel hair) pasta. And while I normally require a meatball orbiting my food in Italian restaurants, I instead vouched for a link of Italian sausage after learning that it’s made daily on the premises. Flavored strongly with fennel seed, the meat was lean and delicious.

Our dessert, too, was incredibly loveable — a cinnamon infused cheese cannoli encased in a crisp delicate pastry that tasted like it came straight out of a New York Italian bakery. It’s the only item on the dessert menu that’s homemade, although we’re told that the Tiramisu and Chocolate Fondant Cake are well worth the calories and carbs.

Along with a decent selection of wines, the drink list includes grappa and about 20 different modish martinis — tempting come-ons to end your evening here for “last call” and a hunk of lasagna.