If the name doesn’t incite trust and appeal, then maybe all of the public touting will.

La Jolla’s newest seafood haunt, called Fresh, has already reeled in three “people’s choice” awards from various publications for “best new restaurant” since opening a year ago. And while I normally view that sort of hype with a skeptical yawn, given San Diego’s passion for conformity, my dining companion and I came away agreeing that Fresh is indeed a praiseworthy catch.

With a heavy focus on fish, both raw and cooked, the menu is actually an amphibious creature that pulls in entrées such as Braised Veal Shank, Crisp Roast Chicken and Proscuitto-Wrapped Pork Tenderloin. Dual influences also mark the restaurant’s interior design, which boasts a cushy covered patio as the larger dining section in front, and a bright, sleek seating area in the back.

Meals here begin with complimentary Zatar, a Middle Eastern hodgepodge of dried spices and olive oil that become the “butter” for your bread. The earthy flavors of cumin, thyme and coriander are offset by a faint hint of cinnamon. And the concoction paired beautifully with our choice of wine — a lush Pinot Noir from Wallace Brook Cellars in Oregon that we adhered to for the remainder of the evening.

Two appetizers followed — one of them okay and the other a whole lot better. The Tuna Potstickers, we concluded, lacked dimension due to the mouthwatering ginger-soy reduction that obliterated the flavor of the tuna. Though tasty, our mini tower of Maine Lobster Napoleon came dancing with personality. The stacked lobster meat was layered with thin, cracker-like potato slices and served with an excellent citrus cream.

My companion’s Red Crimson Pear salad also made a strong opening statement with its fresh baby greens, blue cheese crumbles and sweet vinaigrette. The reddish fruit on top, along with a few puddles of pear-cherry purée, became the officiators in this spectacular marriage of flavors.

A wide bowl of Fire-Roasted Lobster Soup with tarragon oil, however, offered good flavor, but the broth was unexpectedly thin and yearned for a few more chunks of meat.

For our main course, the companion decided to swing both ways — with Fresh’s singular duck entrée, that is. The plate featured both semi-rare slices of the fowl, which were extraordinarily tender, as well as a pastry pillow filled with a gamier, shredded version of the meat; thus the name Duck Two Ways. Both were expertly cooked and presented with quince-apple compote.

My Grilled Wild Salmon clearly reflected the kitchen’s knack for handling fish and seafood. The flaky filet tasted as though it flew off a charcoal spit, even though our skilled waiter informed us that the grill is fueled only by natural gas without any coal or wood chips used. A red-onion salad and Dijon mustard sauce steered the dish into gourmet status.

The menu is stamped with a snazzy flair indicative of other local restaurants belonging to the Sami Ladeki family, such as Roppongi and Prime 10. Here, creative leeway is given to Executive Chef Matthew Zappoli, who traversed his way to San Diego via the acclaimed kitchens of Aureole in New York City and Las Vegas.

Among the splashier items Zappoli has created for Fresh are: Arborio Crusted Sweetbreads, Shellfish-Stuffed Rainbow Trout, Roasted Monkfish with lentil cake and a selection of raw oceanic treats that include Scallop Ceviche and Ahi Carpaccio.

Desserts are simple and elegant, although the Warm Chocolate Cake served with caramel-pecan gelato features a surprise center of oozy milk chocolate inside. The companion joyfully summed it up by comparing it to “uncooked brownie mix in the middle of cake.”

With all said and eaten, we joined the bandwagon of fans that voted Fresh into the ranks of innovative and stylish dining.