dining out
A walk through the aisles
Published Thursday, 08-Oct-2009 in issue 1137
Product: Plain Pizza Dough
Description: One-pound lump of raw, refrigerated pizza dough by Trader Joe’s, made with unbleached wheat flour, filtered water, fresh yeast, sea salt and oil.
Preparation summary: Let stand outside of package on a lightly floured surface for at least 20 minutes, then stretch by hand or rolling pin. Bake with favorite toppings in a preheated 450-degree oven for 8 to 10 minutes.
High points: The word “plain” printed in bold on the front label provides you with an honest warning.
Low points: Sugar is missing from the ingredients, which supplies the fuel for yeast, and renders it dead when absent. As a result, the dough doesn’t sufficiently rise, and you end up with a flavorless lead-weight crust.
Average Retail Price: $1.49
Availability: Trader Joe’s
Product: Gorton’s Grilled Tilapia
Description: New to the Gorton’s line of fish products: Two frozen tilapia patties flavored with garlic, paprika and other spices.
Preparation summary: Cook on foil-lined baking sheet for 18 to 20 minutes in a 400-degree preheated oven.
High points: Filets are super light and flaky, with evenly distributed spices that taste as though a grill master prepared them.
Low points: None
Average Retail Price: $3.99
Availability: Major grocery stores
Product: Parmesan Pastry Pups
Description: Frozen, uncured mini hot dogs wrapped in butter pastry and sprinkled with Parmesan cheese. Package contains 14 “pups.”
Preparation summary: Arrange on lightly greased baking sheet and cook for 22 to 25 minutes in a 375-degree preheated oven.
High points: Somebody out there is at least applying creative thought to wieners, and they’re really trying.
Low points: Delicate puff pastry encrusted in Parmesan cheese is too wacky a match for tough-skinned hotdogs. It’s kind of like pairing melon with bologna; soufflé with ham hocks; fine wine with fish sticks. You just don’t do it.
Average Retail Price: $4.49
Availability: Trader Joe’s
Product: Tina’s Spicy Bean & Cheese Burrito
Description: The ever-popular bean and cheeser by Tina’s now boasts a “new recipe” and quarter-pound weight.
Preparation summary: Microwave frozen burrito uncovered on high for 40 seconds on each side.
High points: Plumper by a millimeter and still dirt cheap.
Low points: In the so-called “new” recipe, the cheese remains invisible, while some of the beans unfortunately appear in whole form, hard and undercooked and explosively airtight.
Average Retail Price: $1
Availability: Major grocery stores
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