Though still young at heart compared to other big cities throughout the world, San Diego’s restaurant scene has finally shed its image of a naïve pubescent that cares less about global culinary trends and quality service than it does about the latest food-court offerings at big malls.

Annual food events such as the dazzling Mama’s Day fundraiser (held in May) or San Diego’s expanding Chef’s Celebration (October), for instance, attest to the growing number of chefs in our region who have earnestly raised the bar for us in terms of artistry and general food awareness.

Below is a list of “cheers” and “jeers” culled from visits to over 70 restaurants this past year — not to mention a tremendous caloric intake that I’m quickly burning off for 2004.

Bandar, 825 Fourth Ave.

I’m still aggressively bribing the owners to reveal how they make these succulent bright-orange chicken kabobs, which literally cut with a fork and melt in your mouth. Reasonable prices and a pretty atmosphere are the icing on the cake.

Hunter Steakhouse, 2445 Hotel Circle Pl.

Why would any snotty gay man choose to hustle low-quality beef in a franchise steakhouse that appears decorated for knitting classes? After six of us celebrated a friend’s birthday here, we came away with a profuse apology and a cache of dinner coupons from the manager after complaining about said waiter.

150 Grand Café, 150 Grand Ave., Escondido

Life in the burbs might not seem so terrestrial if more restaurants of this caliber started moving in. English-style elegance sets the stage for some excellent Dungeness Crab Ceviche and Grilled Pork Tenderloin, which takes on new seasonal twangs according to the whims of talented chef/owner Carlton Greenawalt.

Bad service extends as far as the eye can see when you’re “lounging” on the top floor of San Diego’s tallest hotel. The consistently long wait for drinks begins once you wiggle through the crush of hayseed tourists with baby strollers clamoring for a peek of the bay. Request a meal or separate checks, and you’ll likely witness a beautiful sunrise.

Harney Sushi, 3964 Harney St.

It looks like your average neighborhood watering hole, sans the 14-seat sushi bar and some wonderfully oddball nigiri flying around. Chili spices and hot sauces take center stage here, with the Old Town and After Burner rolls ranking among my favorites.

Extraordinary Desserts, 2929 Fifth Ave.

Since when should a cup of coffee and slice of cobbler cost you a mortgage payment? Perhaps when owner Karen Krasne realizes she’s not doing business in a tony Parisian arrondissement, then more of the neighborhood will wander in to sample her uppity truffle cakes and pseudo Zen-like atmosphere.

The WineSellar & Brasserie, 9550 Waples St., #115

Buried deep within a Sorrento Mesa office park lies one of my favorite finds of the year, where haute cuisine and a profound wine list await anyone who can find the place. The French-influenced entrées are terrific, as well as the Hazelnut Cannoli.

Andres, 1235 Morena Blvd.

My love for Cuban food went on hiatus when I cracked open a traditional Croqueta here and found it filled with some sort of ham spread that tasted like Devilwood refuse. The overly smoked flavor of the pork on our Cuban Sandwiches didn’t score any better. And service was downright abysmal.

Pectopah Pomegranate, 2302 El Cajon Blvd.

It’s the only place in town where you’ll find Georgian-style Russian food. And you’ll be glad you did. Sprightly bean salads, hearty Borscht and delectable stuffed cabbage rolls are among my recommended items of choice at this Bohemian-like spot that just opened in the summer.

Parallel 33, 741 W. Washington St.

If you’re not familiar with all of the cultures that straddle our planet’s 33rd parallel — then come and learn from this exciting menu! Though pricey, the food remains consistently excellent and the service has never failed us.