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Asian-style Duck Confit at Just Fabulous
dining out
Epicurious Eating: Just Fabulous
Just three words, Fab-u-lous
Published Thursday, 08-Jan-2004 in issue 837
Rarely do I roll out of a restaurant with an inflated stomach thinking about when I’ll return or what I might order again. No matter how great the food, I must usually erase the meal from my memory for 24 hours to ensure easy, guilt-free digestion.
Yet within seconds after waddling out of Just Fabulous, my mind started skipping ahead to an inevitable second visit. Would I vouch for that outstanding Kobe Beef Burger that my companion chose? Scarf down more Mai Tai Curried Chicken Salad, which came encased in a toasted baguette? Or simply advance to other menu items that we couldn’t humanly squeeze into the lineup?
And then there are those expertly crafted tortes, tarts and mousses to consider, which serve as the cornerstone of this new little café with the gay-sounding name. The selection is so vast and luscious that we barely left a dent in the alluring display case upon exiting.
Just Fabulous is the brainchild of Pastry Chef Beryl Ann Bryd, whose rigorously designed confections have earned her international acclaim in magazines such as Elle, Chocolatier and Pastry Art and Design. Rather than sticking only to what she knows best, Bryd added another layer to the operation by bringing in Head Chef Jim Davis — the whiz behind the menu’s “savories” category.
[W]ithin seconds after waddling out of Just Fabulous, my mind started skipping ahead to an inevitable second visit.
In less than two months their combined talents have already brought forth “top-of-the-town” food in an unpretentious café setting that is brightened up with yellow and orange walls and a clean Scandinavian layout. Lighted candles in the restroom add a unique and thoughtful touch — leaving us to wonder why more restaurants aren’t doing this. And the silverware appeared as though a jeweler had polished it.
Our meal kicked off with a cup of mouthwatering Butternut Bisque, which broke the norm with mint oil and a geometric drizzling of crème fraiche. An ensuing salad of endive and oak leaf was also extraordinary. The greens were augmented with candied walnuts, rendered bacon and goat cheese flan. And the aged sherry vinaigrette practically forced us to utter the word “fabulous.”
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Luscious Peanut Butter Torte at Just Fabulous
The aforementioned Kobe Beef Burger, however, calls for a much stronger adjective. Made from mature, specially fed wagyu cows in Wisconsin, these “designer patties” are topped with truffle-infused mozzarella and thin sheets of roasted tomatoes and onions. A bowl of rosemary fries and three different types of aioli come on the side. This is definitely the Cadillac of all burger plates in town.
If you’re a fan of polenta, the Beggars Purse is a fantasy come true. It involves a large pastry shell filled with creamy leek polenta and wild mushrooms, then topped off with a flavorful zinfandel reduction. I remain partial, however, to the bread-stuffed Curried Chicken Salad with charred pineapple and macadamia nuts — as well as the Mu Shu Duck Confit swaddled in an outstanding five-spice crepe. Kudos to Davis for conjuring up riveting new flavor combinations that you’ve probably never tasted anywhere else.
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Dessert case at Just Fabulous
At this point the word “sweets” began peeking out from the menu sheet. And we were eager for our final plunge into Byrd’s treasure chest of desserts, all of which are created in an offsite production facility along with a repertoire of dazzling, swooped-up wedding cakes.
The companion opted for a creamy and sensational Key Lime Pie, shaped like a cupcake and served with zesty fresh-lime sorbet. I gravitated to the Peanut Butter Mousse Torte, which performed an unforgettable tango of sweet and salty flavors on my taste buds, only to be enhanced by an exterior glaze of chocolate.
The service staff is friendly and casual. And all of the tools for making lattes, espressos and cappuccinos are prominently displayed at the front counter, which may lead some into mistaking it for just another coffeehouse at first glance. But step inside and sample the fare — and the name “Just Fabulous” makes quick sense.

Just Fabulous
4116 Adams Ave., Kensington; (619) 584-2929; Hours: 11:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m., Tuesday through Thursday, and on Sundays; until 11:30 p.m., Fridays and Saturdays.
Service: 
3.0 stars
Atmosphere: 
3.0 stars
Food Quality: 
4.0 stars
Cleanliness: 
4.0 stars

Price Range: 
$-$$
4 stars: outstanding
3 stars: good
2 stars: fair
1 star: poor
$: inexpensive
$$: moderate
$$$: expensive
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