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Fiddler’s Executive Chef Rick Williams
dining out
Epicurious Eating: Fiddler’s Green
Great grub at Fiddler’s Green
Published Thursday, 29-Jan-2004 in issue 840
The connection between fish house and man bar would have completely eluded us if we weren’t seated in an adjoining booth occupied by one of The Hole’s bartenders, Joey, and a friend. His blatant camaraderie with the wait staff compelled me to ask, “What’s the deal here?” At which point he and our waitress explained the snug kinship that exists between the two enterprises and their employees.
This isn’t to say, however, that you’ll find wet underwear contests served with your Shrimp Scampi. The emphasis is on a different sort of “America’s Cup,” with miniature wooden hulls blanketing the walls along with photos of yachts and sailboats clipping the ocean. A giant soft-sculpture fisherman sits above the entranceway to the restrooms; his line cast to a colossal fish hanging above the open kitchen. It all amounts to a hardcore maritime motif that is surprisingly more comfortable than kitschy.
The grub is predictably Shelter Island — a selection of fresh fish and seafood mingled with turf favorites such as steaks, lamb chops and chicken. Yet the meals are generously portioned and priced at a notch below what you might expect of a place that attracts its fair share of yacht-boasting customers.
Highly recommended are any of the Coconut-Tempura appetizers, which include Tiger Shrimp, Calamari, Onion Rings or all of the above if you spring for the Combo Platter. The shrimp we chose were big and crunchy, and served with a trio of dipping sauces that imparted distinctly different flavors to the sweet delicate batter.
I succumbed to a half-rack of Baby Back Ribs slathered prudently with a zesty Caribbean Jerk Sauce. And the meat really did fall off the bones…
Not on the appetizer menu, but available for the asking, is Grilled Ahi Tuna. The expertly cooked fish, left raw and tender in the middle, includes a zippy teriyaki sauce and shavings of fresh ginger on the side. But our “in-season” Steamed Artichoke proved more exciting given the fact that few local restaurants serve them. The leaves were subtly flavored with herbs — and the dense meaty crown at the base launched us into a competitive eating race.
My companion’s New England Clam Chowder was also good and hearty, although it required a little stimulation from the peppershaker. Yet for those who have grown accustomed to ala Carte menus, soup or salad are joyously included with the entrées! The Spinach Salads come topped with smoked bacon dressing and plenty of hard-boiled egg slices to boot. And the colorful Fiddler’s Garden Salad strikes a perfect match to the house’s homemade basil-vinaigrette.
Skipping over such tempting sea fare as Harpooned Swordfish and Australian Lobster Tail, I succumbed to a half-rack of Baby Back Ribs slathered prudently with a zesty Caribbean Jerk Sauce. And the meat really did fall off the bones with only a slight measure of jaw pressure.
The companion, however, wavered over his Baked Northern Halibut. The herb-crusted filet was thick and flaky at one end; thin and dry on the other. But a few dabs of butter from our breadbasket seemed to rectify the problem.
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Steamed artichoke at Fiddler’s
Dinners also include a side of bright seasonal veggies and choice of potato or rice pilaf — not a bad deal if you sail in before 6:00 p.m. for the early bird specials priced at $12.95 each. Desserts are extra, although the Key Lime Pie is worth those few extra bucks, given its cheesecake texture and thick graham cracker crust.
A full bar and reasonably priced wine list makes Fiddler’s a fun place to hang out with groups of friends, even if you’ve never set foot on a yacht. The restaurant also features a lively outdoor patio and large indoor “party table” with a sand-filled fire pit in the middle. And unlike its sister business, The Hole, it’s a place where you can safely hoot it up with conservative mom and pop in tow.

Fiddler’s Green
2760 Shelter Island Drive, Point Loma; (619) 222-2216; Hours: 5:00 to 9:00 p.m., Sunday through Thursday; until 10:00 p.m., Fridays and Saturdays.
Service: 
3.0 stars
Atmosphere: 
3.0 stars
Food Quality: 
3.0 stars
Cleanliness: 
3.0 stars

Price Range: 
$$
4 stars: outstanding
3 stars: good
2 stars: fair
1 star: poor
$: inexpensive
$$: moderate
$$$: expensive
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