The concept behind the newly opened Indulgence is long overdue when you consider America’s growing disdain for refined sugar, artificial sweeteners and white flour. Here, none of those evils exist unless they’re already fermenting in your stomach from meals elsewhere. And low-carb dieters and diabetics can now safely gorge on flavorful foods and luscious desserts without resorting to waxy protein bars or bowel-taunting maltitol sweeteners whenever the urge to “indulge” sets in.

The café/bakery is the brainchild of Dr. Fritz Klein, founder of The Bisexual Forum, and his partner Tom Reise, who worked in the food industry for nearly 30 years. Klein is a Type 2 diabetic, and Reise is long adept at chasing out the sugars from dishes that he prepares for Klein at home.

Additionally, the couple hired Chef Arlyn Hackett (formerly of the Pritikin Longevity Center in Santa Monica) to help develop a menu of inventive lunch and breakfast fare, along with homemade bakery goods such as tortes, cookies and cakes. Yet with most of the items served here, you’ll be hard-pressed in detecting their low-carb content and total absence of sugar.

Bread, tortillas and cakes, for instance, are made with whole-wheat flour. And sugar is replaced with fructose, fruit juice or Splenda, a natural zero-calorie sweetener that isn’t absorbed into the bloodstream as rapidly. It’s a place where a little overeating doesn’t render you wiry and bloated.

In keeping with the carnivorous allowances found in the Atkins diet, the grill menu features Sliced Bistro Steak with Swiss (and mushrooms), Apricot-Glazed Chicken Breast, and a Free-Range Bison Burger snuggled in lettuce or served on a flavorful one-sided wheat bun. You’ll also find a Tuna Melt with Provolone, Veggie Burger, assorted quiches, Turkey Bacon and other savory stews.

During a recent lunch visit, I opted for a Boneless Chicken Breast coated in a tasty ginger-orange pesto. The tender chicken was accompanied with a few scant carbs from an outstanding Waldorf Salad of apples, grapes, celery and walnuts — all held together by a subtle curry-yogurt dressing. If this is the newfangled definition of healthy eating, I’m sold!

In an effort to sample more, I sprung for the house’s fresh Tabouli, a delectable medley of barley and diced apples infused with a generous dose of lemon and mint. Though pleasant by itself, the concoction mingled particularly well with my Waldorf salad, flirting as amorously together as a high-carb pairing of corn and mashed potatoes.

Unable to pass up dessert, I concluded with a sugar-free Peanut Butter and Jelly Cupcake made with perfectly disguised wheat flour. Unless you’re on a steady diet of Yum Yum donuts, you won’t miss the sugar in this clever creation. Even better are the melt-in-your-mouth chocolate truffles, sold individually or in decorative Valentine’s Day boxes.

A few of the ball-shaped “gem” cookies, however, lacked moisture. Yet the two-layer Apricot-Almond Torte that I tried in a subsequent visit calls for nothing more than a fork and open mouth. It’s presented with a velvety chocolate ganache sauce — and succeeds in flavor and texture without incorporating any of the “white stuff” in its recipe. The bakery case extends to a selection of fine sorbets and ice creams as well, making this a veritable Shangri-La for diabetics and carb-counting eaters alike.

Egg scrambles and burritos are among the sunny breakfast items that come in many styles: Mediterranean, California, Spicy-Jalapeño or with Salmon and Gruyere cheese. I chose the Indulgence Burrito, a wheat tortilla filled with an excellent mixture of three eggs, brown rice, herbs and Gruyere. And the menu’s answer to hash browns is a vegetable patty included with the scrambles. It’s made from turnips, parsnips, sweet potatoes and carrots.

A friendly staff and casual atmosphere form the icing on this quaint, sugar-free café. “We’ll constantly be looking for new recipes that fit our nutritional and presentational parameters,” says Reise. “Our food isn’t just for people on sugar-free or low-carb diets. It’s for anyone who wants to eat healthy and feel good about themselves.”