My longing for summer hit much earlier this year when I was shaking off the shivers inside Costa Azul. The frozen margarita my companion ordered was the best I’ve ever tasted, although it did little to warm our extremities. And entering through the commodious front patio on Orange Avenue put us squarely in the mood for a damaging sunburn and more tequila. But when you’re supping in Coronado on a crisp and listless Sunday night in February, you basically have to chuck those hot-weather fantasies and head straight to the bridge after dessert.

The restaurant’s Mexican-style menu has sunny California written all over it. You’ll find Swordfish Tacos, Veggie Burritos loaded with rice and Rotisserie Chicken served with avocado and bright-red salsa. Yet the White Bean Chili and hominy-infused Pozole de Pollo soup seemed like necessary starters for mid-winter dining, as you imagine yourself lolling under the stucco arches outside with a Cuban Mojito cocktail at your lips.

A list of daily specials augments the regular menu for those seeking additional fuel – or heat in the case of a Dry Rubbed New York Steak massaged with chili powder and stuffed with jalapeno Jack cheese. There’s also fresh fish prepared to your liking – charbroiled, blackened or Vera Cruz style, plus Garlic Shrimp, Seafood Alfredo and a hefty Lobster Burrito.

In what seemed like a culinary gamble, we began with an order of Baja Wings served with chipotle ranch and Buffalo-style hot sauce. These were the first gaggle of wings I ever ordered in San Diego that actually came out of the fryer with a flawless crispy finish.

We directed a second round of applause to my Camarones Diablos based on the generous number of giant prawns it featured – eight to be exact. The crustaceans bulged from beneath a savory blanket of onions, peppers and red chipotle sauce that united naturally with the accompanying rice, beans and some rather thick, two-ply tortillas.

My companion’s Carnitas Ole plate also weighed in well. And it was obvious the pork was pulled from a beautifully seasoned roast that required no browning from the fry grill. Not a speck of grease surfaced.

It wasn’t until we started digging into our Chocolate Mousse Pie that we learned about the restaurant’s defying “French-flair” flan, which we’re told is creamier and more caramel-tasting than most. Ah, if only we didn’t obliterate our entrées so thoroughly.

We were less surprised to discover that a Coronado native owns the restaurant, given its clean Spanish motif and summery sidewalk patio. Brent Sarber opened the eatery four years ago with respect to the culinary proclivities of locals and tourists alike. The Burrito de Coronado, for example, sucks in “the works” along with a choice of carne asada or chicken. It’s then topped with either verde or rojo salsas.

Service here is swift and efficient. And unlike in other restaurants where you must occasionally cope with a wobbly table throughout your meal, the waiters here are quick to whip out of their pockets those little ruses known as “shove-its”. We ended up with two of them at our feet. Yet if we ever blow in on a hot breeze with a deeper thirst for those potent margaritas, we’ll take a couple more to insert in our shoes.