Sometimes you need a fork and knife to dig up interesting morsels of local history. And when the process involves sinking your teeth into a beefy prime steak or fresh slab of fish, it makes probing the past seem all the more fun.

The Coronado Boathouse 1887 serves up more than 100 years of history in a casual two-level dining room that protrudes slightly into Glorietta Bay. As the date in the name implies, it’s older than the nearby Hotel Del Coronado, although few oyster-slurping customers would guess that the structure once served as a marine research station and later a bathhouse, where vacationers changed into Victorian-style bathing suits before browning their shins on the shore.

Having also housed a colorful cast of “boathouse keepers” and offices for the San Diego Yacht Club, the building took on its first commercial kitchen in 1967, when it was leased to the Chart House restaurant chain. Now under new ownership, the restored landmark offers a touch of Cape Cod ambience and a traditional waterfront menu geared expressly for surf-and-turf appetites.

There are a few “bad tables” in the center of the dining rooms from which you can direct your envy toward guests seated along the windows. My companion and I, however, requested a view – and got it. And we immediately hunkered down with an excellent appetizer of Baja Ceviche, a mix of citrusy scallops, lobster and halibut that deserved more of a royal presentation than the fried tortilla shell it came in.

I’m not sure where the problem lies with artichokes these days, but I keep encountering a lean, mean species that yield no pulp. Such was the case with an herb-steamed version we chose. Conversely, a bowl of Lobster Bisque served with a mini carafe of sherry delivered streams of joy, as did a Caesar Salad that contained an appreciable anchovy flavor.

My dinner companion, a strict carnivore, couldn’t pass up the 14-ounce Jack Daniels New York Steak, which is marinated for 24 hours in Dijon mustard, brown sugar and the whiskey. Served rare as ordered, the marinade and port wine demi-glace instilled a tangy lushness to the meat.

According to Executive Chef Scott Delgado, the menu is seldom revised. Repeat customers here prefer consistency to adventure. “And things don’t really change in Coronado,” he quipped. But the former Chart House chef works well within his nautical confines by sneaking Asian, Mediterranean and tropical ingredients into his steak and seafood entrees.

The Macadamia Halibut, for example, is bathed in a savory peanut sauce and crowned with a sweet mango and macadamia crust that reminded me of a topping for sticky muffins. You’ll also find chicken stuffed with artichoke hearts and feta, plus Teriyaki Baseball Top Sirloin, Thai-Citrus Mahi Mahi, and of course, Ahi Tuna, which San Diego restaurants can’t survive without.

The shellfish selection covers all bases – New Zealand Green Lip Mussels, Fresh Shucked Oysters, Alaskan King Crab, Australian Lobster Tail and Seared Scallops. Most dinners are served with Tropical Rice Pilaf, although other side dishes such as Sizzling Mushrooms (portioned for two), or fresh asparagus and baked potatoes are a la Carte.

The signature dessert here is Chocolate Lava Cake, a sensational hot volcano oozing with Belgian chocolate and melting ice cream. If only I could have whipped this up for my sixth grade science project!

Remnants of the Chart House still exist throughout the restaurant in the form of friendly wait staff and old maps embedded in some of the tables. But glance at the framed photographs on the wall, and you’ll discover a layer of boathouse history that had nothing to do with steaks and clam chowder.