You could say that Kal Kayed jetted his way into Med Grill, arriving at the kitchen gates with a cache of earthy Middle Eastern spices to give Hillcrest diners a decorous taste of authentic Lebanese fare.

Kayed is a former pilot and captain for SkyWest Airlines, who tossed aside his wings five years ago to pursue a venture in the restaurant business. The flight so far has been smooth; he owns two successful eateries, in downtown and North Park, and recently opened a third establishment in Hillcrest replete with belly dancers and Moroccan-style décor. For pedestrians strolling past the big-window structure on University Avenue, the two-level Med Grill is a sight for sore eyes compared to the drab and melancholy Hookah Lounge that came before it.

The food here speaks volumes for Kayed’s second passion – a first-class journey for the taste buds where dinner salads come alive with pistachios and sun-dried tomatoes, and the stuffed grape leaves trigger salivation with their subtle pickling spices.

If you’ve never tried shawarma, this is the place to start. The dish involves the slow cooking of marinated lamb, beef or chicken in a vertical broiler before it is cut into thin slices for sandwich or entrée presentations. Its origin remains in conflict, with countries such as Lebanon, Turkey and Israel each staking claim.

Shawarma is also tricky to make because of the sensitive marinating process given to the meat. Here, the kitchen uses an exact alchemy of unshelled cardamom, fresh lemon and whole garlic cloves – crush the garlic and the flavor balance becomes botched.

Appetizers comprise nearly half the menu, a perfect come-on for sharing with friends and maximizing one’s intake. The Hummus proves a good start, as it is served with a pleasing puddle of lemony olive oil in the middle. The above-mentioned stuffed grape leaves (Warak Inab) are highly recommended, as well as the crispy Falafel balls made with garbanzo and fava beans.

Of those delicate filo pastry triangles called Fatayer, the ones filled with Zatar are rather incredible. The filling is made with an intriguing blend of sesame seeds and spices, some of which you probably don’t have in your cupboard, such as dried powdered hyssop and sumac. Skipping to dessert, the homemade Baklawa offers the same flaky texture on the outside, but with a bewitching essence of blossom water exuding from its nutty interior.

Assorted meat skewers and professional belly dancers also take center stage at Med Grill. Like the skewers, the latter are fleshy and juicy, sans the grill markings and depending on your carnal appetite. The girls wiggle their gold Thursdays through Saturdays at 8:00 p.m. and again at 9:30 p.m. My only caveat is that the overhead recessed lighting remains a tad too bright in between performances.

Other savory dishes include the grill’s highly acclaimed lamb chops (Kastaleta), seven-spice jumbo shrimp (Kraidis Kabab), grilled veggie kabobs and assorted pita sandwiches with a nice thick garlic sauce. The restaurant also offers a cosmopolitan wine list with labels from France, Germany, South Africa and of course, Lebanon.

If you’re coming for lunch, be sure to ask about the midday skewer specials, priced at $5.95, as they aren’t yet listed on the menu. And for night crawlers who can’t find a decent bite to eat after the stroke of 9:00 p.m., the Med Grill welcomes you with open arms until 12:00 midnight.