When I invited a friend to join me for dinner at the new Guamanian restaurant called Islander Grill, he immediately asked, “What kind of food do they serve?”

My answer rendered him confused. “Oh you know – Chamorro bowls, Kelaguen chicken and glass-noodle pancit,” I replied as though I was casually spouting off the menu from TGI Fridays. My smirk, however, revealed that I didn’t really know what the heck I was talking about since I had only been told about the food without yet experiencing it.

The restaurant’s location inside the residential-looking Embassy Hotel on Park Boulevard is equally intriguing. What was once a low-spirited, obscure café is now a bright and airy space that sort of takes you to the South Pacific. Thatched palm fronds over the kitchen door and blue sponge-painted walls accented with bold petro-glyphs add a novel ambience. But it is the ceiling fans diffusing Hawaiian Breeze air freshener that clench the faux-tropical theme.

Guamanians, we learned, pack a lot of grilled meats into their meals, similar to the “plate lunches” you’d find throughout the Hawaiian Islands. Prices are affordable. And the essence of the food teeters between Spanish and Asian, a reflection of the island’s cultural heritage.

But don’t let the word “barbecue” on the menu fool you into thinking that the meats are coated in a red gooey glaze. The shaved BBQ Beef, for instance, resembled half-matured Teriyaki jerky that was lean and succulent. And the BBQ Chicken is marinated in a delicate soy-based sauce and cut up into savory chunks with some of the roasted skin still clinging. Both are among several tasty flesh options offered in the “combo” plates, which also brim with fresh cabbage salad and white or “red” rice – the latter flavored with traditional achiote seasoning.

Unaware that the combo meals would yield such voluminous portions, we immersed ourselves in a few hearty appetizers that included four tubular-shaped Lumpia, stuffed with peas and ground beef, plus three jumbo-sized Empanadas that were wonderfully spicy and unique. Bright orange in color, these plump half moons are made with masa dough infused liberally with achiote – and stuffed with creamed rice, red pepper and bits of chicken. I found them addicting.

A third appetizer of Shrimp Patties was less appealing as the heavy batter soaked up too much of the grease in the deep-frying process. The flavor of the shrimp was undetectable to the point where the patties could potentially taste like fried donuts if powdered sugar were sprinkled over them.

From the main entrée list, “Combo #1” gives visitors the best bang for their buck. For only $7.95, you get a choice of two meats, rice and salad, plus a generous scoop of chilled Chicken Kelaguen, which is diced poultry tossed with lemon juice and herbs. Excellent quality compensates for the fact that the meals are served in Styrofoam to-go boxes, although I can’t deny that solid plate ware would give these exotic dinners the dignity they deserve.

Other meal items include Coconut Shrimp, glass-noodle Pancit tossed with veggies and chicken and traditional Chamorro Bowls filled with two scoops of rice and a choice of BBQ chicken or beef. A non-alcoholic drink list rounds out the menu with refreshing options such as Coconut Juice, Root Beer and Sierra Mist.

The restaurant is owned and operated by a clan of cousins who first introduced their native cuisine at farmer’s markets and street fairs before opening the kitchen in April. The service they provide is friendly and casual. And on Thursdays (from 6:00 to 9:00 p.m.) patrons can soak up the mellow Guamanian ambience with live island reggae as they imagine themselves supping in a beachside café surrounded by coconut trees. Just step inside and the vastness of the great Pacific suddenly narrows.