Dining with an ocean view is one thing. But when the Great Pacific starts rapping at the windows as though it’s trying to snatch back that salmon filet on your plate – well, the experience is nothing short of priceless.

Since 1941, The Marine Room at La Jolla Shores has remained the ringside seat for high tides and furious storms. Situated a stone’s throw away from the shoreline, nearly at sea level, only a narrow breadth of sand separates the restaurant’s big glass windows from the water. During high tides, the beach vanishes and the ocean appears to be nipping at your feet. Add to the mix a winter storm, particularly one fueled by El Niño, and the tables inside become the hottest in town.

According to Executive Chef Bernard Guillas, who has worked at the Marine Room for 10 years, “The tides create a very Zen dining experience because you have all of your senses going – the aromas from the kitchen, the expansive vista and water lapping at the windows. Mother Nature is in charge, yet you feel so comfortable and safe.”

The restaurant, however, wasn’t always thoroughly protected from nature’s fury. In 1942 and 1982, the water came crashing through the glass, forcing the restaurant to close each time for nearly nine months. Damage was significant. And Guillas says that staff reported “fresh fish swimming in the ovens.”

Today, the windows are retrofitted with three-quarter-inch tempered glass, similar to those used in airplanes. During storm surges, the waves sometimes crest over the highest point of the restaurant, although “regular high tides still give good shows,” adds Guillas.

The chef recalls a particularly dramatic day in 1994, when El Niño delivered memorable surf. A large buoy was banging against the glass, so Guillas and his staff moved guests away from the windows for fear it would cause damage. “I took off my shoes and shirt and went outside and roped it out of the water. Everyone was asking me, ‘What were you thinking?’ But I thought that this restaurant is so beautiful that I’m not going to lose a window.”

Guillas has since become the restaurant’s high-tide ambassador, often inserting winter tide tables into customers’ checks and hosting media when the view gets splashy. “I’ve had every local TV and radio crew come into my kitchen and do live broadcasts when the water gets high,” he quips.

The tide dates for 2004 and 2005 are already in; thus a series of buffet breakfasts Guillas has devised for those wishing to experience the phenomenon during daylight. Rumor of another El Niño occurring this winter will only sweeten the deal.

“Tides dictate my schedule. It’s very exciting, and very long days because we don’t otherwise serve breakfast. There’s a big push to get everything done by 7:00 a.m., as the high tides roll in every half-hour or so. People love coming here and watching the waves. It’s nature’s best show on earth.”

The “breakfast shows” are planned for Nov. 12, 13 and 14, and Dec. 11, 12 and 13. The menu features fresh shellfish, “salmon trilogy,” eggs benedict, coastal crab cakes, omelets, fresh pastries and more for $26.95. Reservations are recommended.

The Marine Room is located at 2000 Spindrift Dr. in La Jolla. For reservations, or to inquire about 2005 breakfast dates, call (858) 459-7222.