The June gloom had gone too far. My body clock told me it was time for barbecued meat and roasted corn. But until last week our chilly temperatures kept most peeps clad in fuzzy sweaters and thermal thongs. And nobody I knew dared fire up their backyard grills just yet.

So I headed straight to Terra.

Why flee to a gourmet eatery in the middle of the Uptown District for picnic fare, you ask? For starters, I’ve always liked the stylish peaceful ambience of Terra’s dining room and the roomy, dog-friendly patio, both of which are kept spotlessly clean. Secondly, the food is consistently good.

But more so, the restaurant just introduced a “barbecue & blues” theme on Thursday evenings — a simple and summery addition to its regular menu that runs $16 per person. Patrons choose from three barbecued entrées, which can include ribs, pulled pork, chicken, brisket or salmon. The items are slow-cooked in a smoker parked at the entrance. And plates include buttery corn and some mighty fine homemade coleslaw.

A nippy breeze sent my dining companion and I indoors, where solo musician Ben Powell warmed the air with easy rhythms from his guitar and harmonica. He is among several artists slated to perform for the weekly barbecue special, which runs until mid-September.

Since salads aren’t included, we referred to the main menu for dietary balance. Both of our choices were fresh and excellent. The companion’s Spinach and Raddichio salad featured a striking blue-cheese vinaigrette that was surprisingly stronger in flavor than those creamy fat-laden varieties. And spiced walnuts added a powerful zing. The Organic Fallbrook Salad, made with locally grown field greens, was splashed prudently with a fine herb-shallot dressing that I found pleasing.

My companion’s main entrée — Achiote Marinated BBQ Salmon — could not have been better. The extra-thick filet was flaky in the middle and glistened with Terra’s homemade sweet-and-spicy barbecue sauce on the outside. Compared to the generous serving of Pulled Pork that I ordered, the sauce didn’t dominate the flavor of the fish like it did the meat.

Our corn went down in three ferocious gnaws — so delicious that we wished for full cobs rather than the quarter-cuts we each received. The sweet kernels were perfectly cooked and pointed up with ancho chili butter. But the term “big tease” definitely applies here.

Even if you aren’t a fan of coleslaw, you will probably treasure Terra’s secret rendition, made with only a hint of mayonnaise and oil to protect the crispy texture of the cabbage. The roughage is delicately flavored with fennel and sherry. And apparently we weren’t the first customers to ask for some recipe clues.

One shouldn’t overlook the restaurant’s famous dessert either — a crafty Chocolate Cigar constructed with ganache, filo pastry and whipped cream. Served in a heavy glass ashtray, it looks like a slow-burning stogie from a distance — and tastes out of this world. The dessert was conceived before anyone had ever heard of Monica Lewinsky, jokes Mike Rossman, who co-owns the restaurant with his wife, Bobbi, and their son Jeff — who serves as head chef and instructor for the occasional cooking class.

We also ordered a memorable trio of crème brulee. If you’ve never tried the fruit-flavored versions, this is a great place to start.

Terra’s everyday American-gourmet menu features dishes such as Lobster Macaroni and Cheese, Citrus-Roasted Chicken, Pan-Seared Sea Bass (in macadamia and mango purees), plus a variety of grilled steaks.

Additionally, a new menu was recently introduced for diabetics and disciples of the all-protein Atkins diet. It features Lobster Tamal, Griddled Catfish, Crispy Duck and sugar-free ice cream or sorbet.

Northern California vineyards are well represented on the wine list, as well as varietals from Alsace, New Zealand and Australia. Rossman said he’s beginning to “bring back” more French wines now that Freedom Fries and political quibbling over the war in Iraq seem behind us.

Blue skies or not, Terra offers an enjoyable dining experience that is both sophisticated and neighborly.