Named after an early 20th century impressionist, AR Valentien is as much about food as it is about architecture. Nestled inside The Lodge at Torrey Pines, the Craftsman movement comes alive in astounding detail the moment you verge upon the resort’s tucked-away entrance.

Before opening in 2001, the designers went to great lengths in capturing every crisscross design of this bygone building period right down to the handcrafted wood-framed windows, stained-glass lanterns and broad loom carpet patterns. They modeled the structure after the famed Gamble and Blacker houses in Pasadena. And the end result is gorgeous.

Brazilian redwood graces the dining room, as do heavy-framed paintings by Albert R. Valentien, who moved to San Diego in 1908 and made a name for himself depicting California landscapes and flora. Somehow, the restaurant’s wreaking elegance isn’t compromised by highbrow stuffiness, although dressed-down diners on a budget may find themselves ducking into the property’s Golfer’s Grill if they’re hell-bent on taking in a lodge meal.

The one-sheet menu undulates to the whims of the market. Executive Chef Jeff Jackson and Chef De Cuisine Timothy Au track down the freshest seasonal ingredients available. Juicy golden beets, snappy fennel and meaty mushrooms are part of the ever-changing “sets” that support their entrees.

A five-course tasting menu is offered nightly for about $65. Less passive souls construct their own dinners from “first” and “second” course categories. Yet to the delight of my dining companion, our highly attuned waitress gave us the green light to order some tempting preludes from the tasting menu before jumping back over to the regular dinner list.

A salad made with Julian organic apples and walnut vinaigrette ensued, as did a small plate of Guerrero Negro Scallops primped up with Tahitian squash and pearl onions from nearby farms. Also outstanding was a shallow bowl of fennel-artichoke soup spiced with young licorice greens.

Clumps of Maine lobster made their way onto the table in a delicate cannelloni garnished with baby corn and sugar snap peas – a shining example of originality kept as clean and simple as the Craftsman lines on the ceiling. Ditto for the carrot sorbet palate refresher, which came floating in mineral water and tasted like fresh grapefruit.

My companion, content with a lemon drop cocktail made sweet to order, skipped over the exclusive California wine list and zeroed in on Wild Sturgeon for her main course – but not without making another special request. Instead of the Brussels sprouts and squash accompaniments, she asked for the lemon lentils designated for the Halibut Cheeks. In other restaurants, she might be viewed as a problematic customer. But here, the servers treat you as though you’re an honored guest, making frequent silverware changes while keeping everything on your table neatly organized.

The reconfigured dish worked beautifully as the al dente lentils, speckled with bits of carrot and celery, took a natural liking to the fish. “I could eat a pot full of these lentils,” she declared.

My entrée was even better, a super-tender filet mignon that stood on its own without any sauce or jus. The steak was encircled with wilted greens hiding some fat walnuts and toasted Gruyere cheese. Very memorable.

From the center of our table, we shared a boat-shaped dish of golden beets, which are milder and more textured than the deep-red variety, especially when carted in the same day from a farm vendor. Among the other high-quality victuals listed on the evening’s menu were Organic Roasted Chicken with red Russian kale, Wild King Salmon with organic shell beans and Braised Veal Cheeks with chanterelles.

And though artisan cheeses are now the trendy finale to fanciful meals, we concluded instead with sugar on our lips. My companion couldn’t resist Johnny’s Campfire Girls S’mores, served eloquently in a linen-wrapped ramekin with a glass of chilled organic milk on the plate. It’s the remarkable alternative to those omnipresent brownie sundaes. And the Organic Red Raspberry Feuilletee in caramel sauce was also a charmer. Stratums of airy pastry are rigged with Napoleon-type cream and berries.

AR Valentien leaves you with a nostalgic aftertaste for all things California as it pays high tribute to our state’s architectural heritage and enviable food bounty. It’s the kind of place that turns an ordinary evening into a special occasion.