Some restaurants are born with enviable genes. The new Voyáge eatery in Little Italy certainly ranks among them. At only two months old, it resides in a solid old building blessed with rich architectural detail and operates from a coveted corner lot on India Street, made highly visible by the freshly constructed Piazza Basilone fountain.

Formerly a hair salon and then Gargoyle Gallery & Café, the restaurant’s cosmopolitan team of owners prettied it up with exquisite Moroccan appointments, a pillowy banquette and wooden window frames. The result is an ethereal, soothing atmosphere that makes you want to sleep here overnight.

The name Voyáge makes perfect sense as you journey from the front bar, which displays a built-in globe, to the candlelit dining room where you’re exposed to so many culinary influences from around the world that the term “fusion” becomes an understatement.

The eclectic menu, headed by Chef Andre Bellard (formerly of Sassafras) features a litany of delights that embrace the Americas, Asia, Europe, the Caribbean and his native Louisiana. Only seasoned chefs like Bellard can pull off such a formidable scramble of dishes per day, which include everything from Triple Cheese Wontons and Lemongrass-Shitake Soup to Sugarcane Shrimp, Mediterranean Mussels Linguini and Jambalaya. His presentations are exquisite, as are the indigenous flavors of the regions he tackles.

The low-volume Celtic music playing on CD upon our arrival added further worldliness to the atmosphere, which we soaked up euphorically over a couple of generous pours of glycerin-smooth Jewel Zinfandel. Two loud-talking, cackling girls ignorant of their tranquil surroundings, however, marred the ambience once our meal got started. In a perfect world, restaurants would have soundproof seating pens available for customers like these.

Yet such chronic squealing wasn’t going to ruin what we ate. An order of Avocado-Stuffed Spring Rolls served with spicy chili coulis were wonderfully fragile in texture and utterly Southern Californian in flavor. A second appetizer of skewered Firecracker Shrimp, wrapped also in the same wonton casing, took on a deeper Asian flair when we swiped them through the chili-hoisin sauce on the plate.

The restaurant’s signature Lobster Bisque warmed our innards on this chilly night, although we felt its flavor and consistency was a wee thin. Conversely, the Warm Spinach Chicken Salad didn’t fail us. It’s pointed up with creamy Roquefort crumbles, non-candied walnuts and a honey-balsamic vinaigrette that guilefully accentuates the ingredients. Other salad choices include Caribbean Chicken, Grilled Shrimp & Scallops and Northwest Salmon Seafood.

Voyáge’s affinity for globetrotting becomes plainly obvious as you approach the entrée list. Such culinary incongruity never looked so good as we were faced with options such as Penne Bolognese, Szechuan-Style Duck, Filet Mignon a la Creole or Garlic BBQ Baby Back Ribs, to name a few.

My dinner companion landed on Caribbean Style Sea Bass steamed in banana leaves and lemongrass. The fresh filet sported a brushing of grilled peanuts and invisible spices that sneak up quickly. It’s an excellent dish that also includes some downy-soft rice flavored with scallions as well as flash-sautéed veggies sitting alongside a tantalizing creamy-white clam sauce.

A hankering for red meat steered me to the Prime New York Steak, which didn’t offer the soft, buttery texture I expected. Though cooked “medium” as ordered, I may have gotten the runt cut of the liter with a few winding tendons running through it. The red-wine peppercorn sauce and savory white-cheddar gratin potatoes placated my disappointment.

As with many restaurants eager to outgrow their baby shoes – wait service can be spotty. Our waitress was high on friendliness, low on efficiency. She pulled too many disappearing acts when we needed her most. In trying to request a second spoon for the bisque we shared, for example, we waited nearly 10 minutes and still couldn’t find her. Or when my dining companion arrived a few minutes after me, it took an inordinate amount of time before she could place her wine order. And why was the other waitress on duty that evening wearing a T-shirt and Dockers in such a sophisticated environment?

Caveats aside, our desserts put a divine cap on the evening – Chocolate Espresso Cake and a slice of Berry Buckle. Both were rich, warm and delicious. Admittedly, the Crème Brulee and Pumpkin Cheese Cake on the menu were difficult to pass up.

It comes as no surprise that Voyáge’s multi-partner ownership brings a host of cultural backgrounds to the venture; France, Italy, South Africa and New York are all represented in the lineup. And if I had to bet on it, I’d wager that the restaurant will grow up fast and become Little Italy’s darling child who gets all the attention.