To imagine Sofia’s Italian Table, you have to think big. A rove through the restaurant’s exquisitely designed patio leads you in to a 7,500-square-foot grand trattoria Mediterraneanized with terracotta hues, collectible pottery and vivid works of art. So spacious is the interior that one easily assumes some moneyed corporation left behind its fingerprints on the wall sconces and oversized vases.

But Sofia’s is privately owned, the brainchild of Michael McGeath, who also runs the acclaimed Trattoria Acqua in downtown La Jolla. Here, his menu resembles a tome of multi-regional Italian favorites adapted largely for American palates in that it abounds with infinite meal choices.

Our first stop, the brimming “antipasti” category, resulted in a long, fickle pause. Passing up the usual suspects such as Bruschetta and Caprese, my dining companion opted for the Vongole Oregante – oven-baked clams capped with toasted breadcrumbs and served with a well-constructed white-wine sauce. The breading, we felt, could have used a higher dose of oregano and parsley to achieve a more classic flavor.

An order of imported Prosciutto di Parma was an exceptional treat that hails directly from Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region. The thinly sliced, salt-cured ham carpeted a large serving plate, which contained in the middle a heaping of baby arugula strewn with tongue-tingling Gorgonzola. A few surprise figs tucked underneath revealed themselves as we made it to the finishing line. We also tried the Gamberi Fritti (fried shrimp), which were big and succulent, although we weren’t sure where in Italy it’s made with beer batter, which my companion noted was too malleable for his liking. However, the silky orange-mustard aioli dipping sauce added a fine flair.

Our salad choices were outstanding. Grilled pears, candied walnuts and chunks of bleu and Gorgonzola cheeses comprise Sofia’s Insalata, which was pointed up with delectable sherry-walnut vinaigrette. The Insalata Lee, named after Sofia’s young, ambitious chef de cuisine, Hugo Lee, is a meaty combination of chopped romaine hearts and radicchio tossed with the aforementioned cheeses and good-quality salami and bacon. An excellent lemon vinaigrette imparted a deceiving lightness to the dish.

Overwhelmed by the copious offerings on the regular menu, my companion deferred to the list of daily specials, and landed upon Pasta del Giorno. A generous portion of penne pasta with tons of Scottish salmon ensued. The dish was well balanced with fresh asparagus and its flavor cinched by a delicate vodka cream sauce.

I couldn’t pass up the Vitello Saltimbocca, a Roman staple of finely-sliced veal infused with the flavors of prosciutto, sage and Marsala wine reduction. Chef Hugo uses a little less Marsala and more veal au jus in the cooking process – a welcome adaptation that allows the main ingredients to better “jump in the mouth” as the English translation goes.

Most of the pizza we ordered got doggie bagged and tasted much livelier after I reheated it the following day. We chose the colorful Quattro Stagioni featuring various toppings separated into four quadrants. Beautifully presented, the thin crust adheres to the Napoli style of pizza making and was cooked to a crispy finish in the kitchen’s high-heat, wood-fire oven.

Sofia’s ample menu accommodates anyone in need of an Italian food fix. The familiar and unfamiliar are co-mingled. From the “house specialties” you’ll find Osso Buco-style lamb shank, grilled prime Angus served with canelini bean stew and Arborio rice risotto with shrimp. Sheet pasta is made in-house and appears in the Lasagna Bolognese and Ravioli di Aragosta stuffed with Maine lobster – two hot-selling dishes that compete with more standard pastas such as Spaghetti Marinara, Fettucine al Pollo and Linguine al Pesto.

Another section of the menu caters to the low-carb set with entrées that keep potatoes, rice and pasta at a safe distance. What you save here in carbs can perhaps be spent on some serious wine drinking, as the list includes fabulous varietals from Italy’s notable wine regions such as Piedmont, Tuscany and Alba.

Service is proficient. And the wait staff exhibits a slick knowledge about the food and wine. Yet despite the great amount of wiggle room patrons are afforded inside, the patio beckons those looking for a cozier dining experience. A working fireplace framed by a 17th century stone mantelpiece, plus abundant flowers and greenery, will deliver you to the Tuscan courtyard of your dreams – within the glass-and-concrete heart of the Golden Triangle, no less.