My first visit to The Quail dates back to the early ’90s, when it was called The Quail Inn. The blue-haired crowd was out in full force, munching on prime rib and baked potatoes. And the dated ambience resembled a place where Mike and Carol Brady could arrive for a quiet dinner after putting the kids to bed.

After undergoing a $1 million renovation, a few changes have been made, depending on where you point your senses. The restaurant’s choice location on the bank of Lake San Marcos remains a strong point, with views of swans, cranes and egrets providing scenic amenity. Yet it isn’t until you begin supping on some of the craftier dishes introduced by newly appointed Executive Chef Michael Cotta that the property reveals hints of a makeover.

A handsome marble bar encircled partly by cushy banquettes is a standout against the old blueprint. Though before wandering over to it, my dining companion whispered to me over Prosciutto Wrapped Asparagus, “I don’t notice anything different in here,” as she continued gazing across the open dining room with memories of visiting with her family years ago. The carpeting is also new, a heavy leaf-pattern in browns, reds and oranges that we felt overly corresponds to the flora and fauna outside, all part of the Lake San Marcos Resort & Country Club.

The chef’s snappy approach to cooking is what will potentially rope in larger segments of the community, a goal set by the new ownership, La Jolla Development Group. Cotta breathes new life into some of the staid fare (prime rib, roasted quail and rack of lamb) with a roster of a la minute sauces that speak directly to contemporary diners. He also purchases farm-fresh produce and makes the pasta, which shows up in Shrimp Fettuccine Alfredo and Cannelloni Marinara.

From the starter list, we reveled in Grilled Sea Scallops wrapped in some sort of God-sent apple wood bacon that was mouthwatering. A drizzling of soy glaze added perfect tang. The aforementioned asparagus (wrapped in prosciutto) was thick and tender – and a Shrimp Martini, though not radically different from your average shrimp cocktail, showed off the chef’s propensity for hunting down purveyors of fresh, quality seafood.

The salads, too, are more colorful than what they used to be. My companion’s medley of spinach with candied pecans, teardrop tomatoes and red onions was dressed in a strawberry vinaigrette that was more tart than fruity, but pleasing nonetheless. The Chilean Salad I ordered was also enjoyable, consisting primarily of cherry tomatoes swooped up with garlic, onions and cilantro. The dish could have been more elegantly presented, however, if it weren’t so over-portioned.

From the red-meat offerings, the Prime Beef Entrecote my companion chose earned our complete attention. Entrecote is a French term for steak cut from ribs, and doesn’t disappoint when it’s cooked with the expertise Cotta demonstrated. The sizable filet was served with “sauce Robert,” constructed from rich, brown veal stock and a touch of Dijon mustard. I had to agree with my companion when she declared it was the best-dressed steak she’d ever eaten.

As soft piano music permeated the senior-laced dining room, the chef struck another melodic chord in my succulent Pan Seared Pork Chop finished with bourbon beurre blanc. Cotta is truly a meat-and-sauce master who brings to the kitchen top honors that he graduated with from Cordon Bleu chef school in Portland, Ore.

His other signature items include Grilled Beef or Pork Ribs in “border barbecue” sauce, Filet Mignon with Merlot reduction and Tequila Lime Chicken Breast, to name a few. A few creative fish entrées, plus pasta and vegetarian dishes round out the menu.

With an expanded and affordable wine list, the restaurant offers moderate discounts on bottles every Tuesday and Wednesday. Our choice, Covey Run Syrah from Washington State, tasted slightly astringent at first, but opened up nicely after aerating for several minutes.

The dessert list keeps pace with trendier restaurants in that it includes spiked coffees and cognacs. Yet with strawberries in season, we knew to order a bowl of them with balsamic glaze and vanilla gelato. The sweet-tart-creamy combination left us ecstatic in what is a peaceful, established restaurant on a tucked-away lake that yearns to be more widely noticed.