What better time than prime artichoke season to try a pair of new recipes for making the most of this beloved edible thistle?

A couple of chefs from Monterey County offer the following dishes, inspired by their advantageous position as professionals working in the heart of the artichoke-growing country. Their region produces most of the artichokes eaten in the United States (the town of Castroville is dubbed “artichoke capital of the world”).

Artichokes are the flower buds on large thistle-family plants, and baby artichokes are simply lower-growth flowers on the primary stalks. In full growth, an artichoke plant can spread 9 feet in diameter and stand 5 feet tall; one plant can produce 20 or more artichokes a year.

Nearly 4 million artichokes are harvested annually from the region, according to the Monterey County Convention and Visitors Bureau. The season for fresh artichokes starts in early spring and rises to a peak in May, with later-season supplies available through October. Frozen artichokes, of course, are always available.

Your fresh-bought artichokes are best stored in a plastic bag with a sprinkling of moisture in the refrigerator, until they are fried, steamed, sautéed, boiled, microwaved or grilled. In the cook’s hands, this versatile flower bud can be an appetizer or a garnish, a vegetarian entrée or a side dish for all to dig into.

As for the perfect dressing, among a variety of possibilities two main preferences have been observed: Eastern states prefer butter, while Western regions opt for mayonnaise or aioli.

Artichokes are not hard to prepare, and this fresh, herby preparation makes a fine appetizer.

2 extra-large artichokes

2 teaspoons chopped garlic

1 shallot, chopped

1/4 cup olive oil

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon chopped basil or cilantro

Salt and pepper to taste

Herb Aioli (recipe follows)

Lemon wedges for garnish

Optional garnish: your choice of caviar

In medium pan with steamer, bring water to a boil. Trim artichoke bottoms and leaf-tops flat. Steam artichokes for 25 to 35 minutes until tender at the core. Drain, cool and cut in half. Cut out fibrous, fuzzy centers.

Mix together all ingredients for marinade. Place steamed artichokes in marinade for 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from mixture and place on char broiler or barbecue with the leaves of the artichokes facing up on grill. Cook for 4 to 6 minutes depending upon fire temperature, just long enough to heat for serving and add grill-smoke flavor. Remove from grill and serve with Herb Aioli (or caviar, if desired) and lemon-wedge garnish.

Makes four appetizer servings.

Suggested wine: a Monterey County sauvignon blanc.

1/3 cup day-old bread crumbs

1/2 tablespoon white wine vinegar

6 to 8 garlic cloves

1/2 teaspoon salt

6 egg yolks

1 1/2 cups olive oil

1/4 cup fresh chopped basil or cilantro

White pepper and hot pepper sauce, to taste

Combine crumbs, vinegar, garlic, salt and egg yolks in food processor. Drizzle in olive oil. Add white pepper and hot pepper sauce to taste. Add fresh basil or cilantro to food processor; blend for 1 minute more, until creamy.