For health-conscious cooks who refuse to sacrifice flavor, mastering how to make and use marinades is essential. It’s an excellent way to infuse vibrant flavors into lean meat, poultry and fish without adding excessive fat or salt.

Most marinades follow a basic equation that calls for a bit of acid, a bit of fat and some flavorful ingredients such as onions, garlic, fresh or dried herbs, and spices. Some people believe the acid – which often takes the form of lemon juice, vinegar, wine or buttermilk – helps break down tough proteins or connective tissue in the meat, theoretically acting as a tenderizer. Meat expert Bruce Aidells isn’t so sure.

He says there is much debate over whether this is true. Marinades certainly can change the texture of a meat, but some people argue it makes it mushy rather than tender. Nevertheless, Aidells is a big fan of marinating.

“My motivation for using a marinade isn’t texture,” he says. “I like to be able to take a cheaper cut of meat and infuse it with intense flavor that might otherwise be missing.”

The fat – generally a cooking oil such as olive, canola or even nut oil – helps with that. Oil spreads the flavor throughout the solution and helps it coat the food, keeping it moist. The oil also makes for better browning during cooking.

When using marinades, it’s important to keep several guidelines in mind.

Once the marinade is mixed, set aside a portion before adding the meat to it. This portion can be used for basting or drizzling over the meat after cooking.

Don’t be tempted to use the marinade the raw ingredients soaked in; this can transfer harmful bacteria from the uncooked food. To use the soaking marinade, transfer it to a saucepan and boil for at least five minutes to kill any pathogens.

Marinating should be done in a stainless steel or glass container, or a zip-close plastic bag. If the marinade doesn’t cover the food, be sure to turn the meat occasionally to ensure even flavoring.

As a rule of thumb, seafood should not be marinated more than 30 minutes to an hour, as the tender flesh can be ruined.

Poultry and vegetables can marinate up to eight hours depending on the flavor intensity desired. Longer soaks can produce chicken that bursts with flavor, but as with any protein, marinating more than 24 hours can change the texture in an unpleasant way.

Red meats almost always benefit from at least an overnight marinade.

(Start to finish: 10 hours, including marinating overnight, 15 minutes active)

6 skinless chicken legs (or 6 thighs and 6 drumsticks)

Grated zest and juice of 2 lemons

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 large onion, finely chopped

1 teaspoon sambal oelek (Indonesian chili sauce, or any Asian chili sauce)

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/4 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

If using chicken legs, divide each leg into thighs and drumsticks, cutting at the joint.

In a medium bowl, combine the lemon zest and juice, garlic, onion, sambal oelek, olive oil, salt and pepper. Transfer the chicken and marinade to a zip-close plastic bag and seal. Place the bag in the refrigerator to marinate overnight, or about 10 hours.

Preheat oven to 350 F.

Remove the chicken from the marinade and arrange on a large roasting pan. Roast until cooked through, about 45 minutes to one hour. When the chicken is pierced with a knife, the juices should run clear. Serve hot, sprinkled with the parsley.

Makes six servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 249 calories, 9.5 g total fat (2 g saturated), 26 g protein, 7 g carbohydrate, 1 g fiber, 197 mg sodium.