Some might say another princess is the last thing Hillcrest needs. But when she smells like a clove, tickles your lips and then caresses your stomach – well, everyone wants a piece of her.

Though regally poised, the India Princess is hardly what you’d call a prima donna; her subjects are bestowed with dignity rather than robbed of it, such as the imperial introduction visitors receive when strolling down her elongated red-carpet foyer, which could have otherwise been crammed with auxiliary seating. Attentive waiters buttoned down in black attire and gold neckties eagerly greet and seat you at the end of the trod. And the dining room is almost as quiet as a library if weren’t for the hum of an openly displayed beer cooler toward the back.

The crowning ceremonies, however, begin with the first chomp into a host of Northern Indian cuisine, which is better known for its aromatic spices than the hellishly hot curries from the south. Cardamom, cinnamon, clove and cumin rise to the forefront in most of the dishes, with garlic taking the lead in others. And compared to her nearby competitors, this Princess keeps her prices a tad lower.

Among the most novel dishes I’ve ever encountered when eating Indian is the house’s Chicken Lasooni, an appetizer so stupendously flavorful it deserves promotion to the entrée list. The dish features a plop of tender diced chicken in the middle (marinated in sour cream), surround by a dozen perfectly baked garlic cloves. A cilantro-speckled brown sauce made with reduced garlic water and lemon juice injects a bewitching tang to the whole ensemble.

My dining companion vouched for Vegetable Samosas as another prelude, although we were underwhelmed by their squashy texture and mediocre flavor, which seems the case no matter where I eat them. A trio of intensely fine chutneys on the table helped doctor them up.

We beckoned back to nirvana, however, with an order of Mulligatawny Soup stocked with chicken pieces. The broth was elegantly spiced and sported an exotic overtone similar to dhal soup. The yellow Lentil Soup was also worth guzzling. We loved its garlicky-lemon flavor and smooth consistency.

Chef Shabi Chowdhury’s claim that everything’s made fresh is indisputable. He uses liberal spices and pungent ingredients along the way while pointing out that the kitchen goes through nearly three cases of peeled garlic a week. Having worked in Indian kitchens in New York and England, his recipes are stamped with craftiness and originality without veering off track from the tenets of Mughlai cuisine.

Secret sauces abound, such as the one used in my companion’s Lamb Nargisi Kofta, made with myriad spices and a palpable amount of cream that we found sinfully delicious. It cloaked three large “meatballs” of ground lamb and bared an occasional cashew for extra richness. The lamb category covers a wide gamut of choices, including vindaloo and curry recipes, which will give red-meat lovers plenty of gaga fodder.

From the Tandoori category, there are selections for poultry, fish, veggie and meat (sans the beef, of course). I chose “medium spicy” jumbo tiger shrimp flavored with saffron and almonds, which arrived sizzling on an iron plate with loads of onions and bell peppers. Despite the shrimp being slightly overcooked, the dish provided a cache of fiery flavors and struck a hearty match to an order of warm unleavened bread stuffed with potatoes.

The menu offers several “side condiments,” with the Mixed Pickles reserved strictly for those who know Indian food well. The strongly flavored concoction of carrots, gooseberries and lemon wedges is marinated for months in oil and can crush the taste buds if it’s not eaten in microscopic nibbles. Keep the Nan bread or rice bowl handy if you take the plunge.

Chef Chowdhury’s menu is extensive and well organized, which calls for maximum experimentation and family-style eating. The food is presented with style and grace, plated often in ornate brass bowls from which the waiters spoon your first serving. An order of homemade mango ice cream we ordered for dessert was particularly attractive – a refreshing finale served in a hollowed mango shell.

The restaurant offers a champagne brunch on weekends for $12.95. Free validated parking is available after 5:00 p.m. on weekdays (and all day on weekends) in the medical building parking lot across the street. Noble food and comfy “princess” perks is exactly what today’s restaurant-goers rightfully deserve.