If there are two places that Escondido can’t afford to lose, it’s the California Center for the Arts and a nearby restaurant where the food is as symphonized as a Verdi opera.

With a name like 150 Grand Cafe, one might envision a casual little eatery that plays up to the village-like atmosphere flanking it. But don’t be misled, because the “café” turns out to be rather “grand” in terms of atmosphere and menu offerings.

Visitors are greeted with a graceful English-style design that is part living room, part library. Flowered napkin rings and tea lights garnish the linen-draped tables. Large, colorful oil paintings of dining scenes blend into the pastel walls like murals, with their seams expertly painted over. And built-in shelves stocked with cookbooks abound throughout the main dining room.

Sensing we had discovered Escondido’s culinary trophy, my dining companion and I marked the occasion with a martini — an eatable one filled with Dungeness Crab Ceviche. The glass yielded more crabmeat than we expected, along with a surprise layer of guacamole halfway down. Small bits of cilantro, cucumber and tomatoes added perfect flavor.

While the companion munched on an outstanding Butter Lettuce Salad with goat cheese and sun-dried tomatoes, I cooled down with Chilled Strawberry-Melon Soup. The purée was both tart and sweet — and pointed up with just the right amount of diced green onion to keep it from tasting like a dessert.

Our waitress kept us well supplied with fresh bread and a killer hummus spiced with cayenne pepper and cumin. Who needs butter when you’re this far inland in the middle of summer? Water glasses were replenished regularly and our wine supply was expertly monitored.

Executive Chef Carlton Greenawalt injects creative change into the menu daily. A new sauce here, a new accompaniment there, he’s especially known for doing fabulous things to pork, which dictated my decision to try the Grilled Pork Loin.

The plate featured several slices of meat that were a little pink in the middle (like they should be), plus wild rice and a stack of summer-fresh green beans accented with annatto-seed oil. It was all beyond excellent, especially the spicy cherry sauce, which clung beautifully to the edges of the pork. Greenawalt aptly lived up to his reputation as loin master, we felt, although his signature pecan-crusted recipe is slated to appear on the menu in September.

My companion chose the Pepper-Seared Top Sirlion Steak, which mimicked in size a hearty cut of filet. Caramelized Vidalia onions and veal reduction sauce made this steak a winner. Tender asparagus and mashed potatoes supported the elegant presentation.

The menu offers several options for designing your meal. You can order ala carte or choose from three to six courses at fixed prices that range from $29 to $45.50. Among the mainstays are Pan-Roasted Duck, Braised Salmon, Risotto and Filet Mignon — each prepared differently depending on when you visit. Snazzy cheese plates are also available as either a primer or alternative to dessert. They include seasonal fruits and crostini.

A bar menu is available in the lounge area if you want to eat light while sipping on cordials. The menu extends to the garden patio as well, which will soon become a martini lounge.

If you’re looking for a truly fabulous dessert, try the Chocolate Brownie served with sour cherries, avocado ice cream and a slab of unforgettable homemade peanut brittle. The odd combination of flavors was fantastic. We also dove into a slice of ultra-creamy cheesecake, simply titled after the restaurant’s name. At this point we knew that the word “Grand” represented more than an address.