They just don’t build chophouses like this anymore. If Lou and Mickey’s were located only a few miles beyond the Gaslamp District, its circa-1940s motif and brick exterior would appear overly contrived against our city’s stucco-infused landscape. And all those consumers who revel in theme dining would surely start cramming the foyer as though a new Claim Jumper had opened.

But when a touch of old Chicago springs up at the foot of Fifth Avenue, directly under the historic Gaslamp arch — the fabrication seems more convincing. The 8,000 square-foot restaurant, located in the recently constructed Bridgeworks Building, resembles a bygone steak-and-seafood supper club. Dark wood moldings, mosaic-tile floors and brassy light fixtures saturate the roomy bar area as well as several dining rooms attended by waiters dressed in classic white dinner coats.

This recreated nostalgia, however, doesn’t come cheap. Valet parking is $10 — about the average cost of an appetizer. And most dinner entrées exceed $20, although the quality of food runs high and portions are hefty. Tally in one of the restaurant’s sensational exotic drinks — a Horny Monkey, Witch Doctor or Lavender Margarita — and you suddenly remember that it’s 2003 again.

My dining companion launched into the meal with a traditional Iced Jumbo Shrimp Cocktail that wasn’t nearly as exciting as my Grilled Jumbo Artichoke. The shrimp were slightly overcooked, although the quartered artichoke was superbly tender and flavorful. Our front choppers worked feverishly as we masticated every last leaf on the plate.

Two large salads followed — a richly dressed Caesar, plus a refreshing and unique Roasted Beet arrangement crowned with a disc of toasted goat cheese. The beets (red and candy-striped) were tempered nicely with balsamic and citrus vinegar reductions. It’s a fancy summer treat that isn’t easily found on other menus.

In this courtly yet comfy atmosphere, it’s impossible to resist the surf-and-turf options. My companion chose a 16-ounce, Bone-In Filet and an Australian Lobster Tail that were both orgasmic. The steak was embarrassingly large — about three inches thick and perfectly grilled with seasoned butter. And the lobster meat, pulled back from its shell, tasted almost as sweet as those caught off the coast of Maine.

I paired Broiled Garlic Shrimp with a New York Strip Steak that was finished with a savory brandy-peppercorn sauce. The shrimp this time around were delicately cooked — as was the beef, which turned out rarer than I normally like. But with cuts this thick, I realized without complaint that redder is better.

Side dishes are ala carte, but enough for two people. They include Creamed Spinach, Steamed Broccoli, Grilled Asparagus and several potato dishes that ranged from very good to extremely salty. The mashed version was homey and excellent. But the scalloped potatoes contained enough salt to kill a sore throat. Too bad, because the toasted cheese on top would have paired nicely with all those spuds underneath.

Our friendly waiter was knowledgeable about the menu, assuring us that all cuts of beef are prime grade. The bone-in choices are highly recommended, although you’ll need a barbarous appetite to polish off the extra-thick Porterhouse Steak, which weighs in at a whopping 28 ounces!

Other noteworthy entrées include Maryland Lump Crab Cakes, Alaskan King Crab Legs, Teriyaki Yellowtail, Roasted Half Chicken, Colorado Lamb Chops, Garlic Meatloaf and several Italian-style pasta dishes.

Our decision for dessert was made quickly, considering that I was dining with a Florida native who spotted Key Lime Pie on the menu. It took only one bite before she declared the pie as 100 percent authentic. The filling is light and tart. And the graham cracker crust tickles the tongue with just the right amount of sweetness.

Lou and Mickey’s offers some great other creature comforts — an attractive patio that looks out to the San Diego Convention Center, a piano man playing tunes from the ’40s (Thursday through Saturday evenings), a comprehensive wine list and an overall masculine atmosphere that remains deliciously timeless.