The last time I ate Mexican food in Old Town was at the Casa de Bandini, a bustling landmark voted repeatedly as “San Diego’s best Mexican restaurant,” probably by the same gringos who declare Papa John’s as their favorite pizzeria.

I remember lakes of melted cheese ambushing everything on my plate and droves of margarita-guzzling tourists spread densely throughout the colorful dining rooms and central patio. The strums and rattles of mariachi were deafening. And I vowed I’d never go back.

That is until I spied the new signage on this appealing two-level structure, which has been around since the horse and wagon days. With the recent takeover of the adjoining Bazaar del Mundo by Delaware North Companies Parks & Resorts, the former Casa de Bandini is now Cosmopolitan Restaurant, named after the hotel and restaurant that operated here in the late 1800s. Newly installed flora and canvass canopies on the patio intermingle with period bric-a-brac in an attempt to recreate the ranchero days of Southern California. So far, the corporate fingerprints of Delaware North are undetectable, as the firm also began revamping the land parcel it sits on (now called Plaza del Pasado) with historic consciousness.

The food at Cosmopolitan is noticeably better – less slapdash in presentation and with fresher, feistier flavors. Various-sized margaritas remain the drink of choice against a moderate number of wines from California and Mexico offered by the glass.

With the exception of Empanadas de Pollo from the appetizer list, my party of three soaked up the entrées without any complaints. The empanadas, however, were clearly given a quick reheat and tasted day-old. Filled with a sexy combo of chicken, green olives, raisins and almonds, their flavor and moisture may have disappeared under storage. And the squiggles of chipotle sauce on top tasted like something Kraft Foods could someday introduce.

Taking solace in an overfilled basket of decent table chips paired with safely spiced salsa, we awaited our main courses under very quiet conditions. Only a few other parties occupied the large dining room we sat in, although the large outdoor patio revealed a little more activity. Our waiter chalked up the slow night to a Padres game that evening, though we surmised that it was because the restaurant sits temporarily in a dark void without the support of retailers that previously occupied the nearby bazaar.

“This place was always crowded, no matter what,” whispered one of my companions as a tuxedoed man approached our table selling roses. If the lack of a fandango atmosphere equates to faster service and better food, then I don’t mind.

From the salad list, the Ensalada de Carnitas constituted a full meal for my companion who ordered it. The mixed greens took on a heap of tender shredded pork, perfectly under-seasoned to allow the natural flavors of the roasted meat to shine through. Shaved jicama and cubed avocado in the salad were ultra-fresh. And the addition of sweet corn and orange segments provided a lively boost, as did a light dressing of prickly pear vinaigrette.

My other companion sprung for the Number 2 combo featuring a chile relleno made with a dark green pasilla pepper – a more robust choice compared to your typical Anaheim chili. The accompanying cheese enchilada also tasted above board. It was bathed in tangy tomatillo salsa, which effectively peps up the often-mundane flavor of Jack cheese. A crisp chicken taco, pleasing but ordinary, as well as refried organic pinto beans and downy rice rounded out the plate.

None of us could tell the difference between the “pork” in my Enchilada Suiza from the “carnitas” contained in the above-mentioned salad. Just as well. I loved how the savory meat interacted with the buttery-tasting asadero cheese as it flopped out of the large corn tortilla and joined forces with made-to-order guacamole and good-quality sour cream on the side. It became my favorite dish of the evening.

Service was friendly, but oddly structured. Both a waitress and “assistant waiter” tended to our table in irregular fashion, each of them checking with us periodically as to whether the other took our food and drink orders. We were never sure who was in charge of what.

The menu offers some spunky alternatives from standard taco fare, such as shrimp flambéed in tequila, mahi-mahi with mango salsa and chicken breast sautéed with Serrano peppers and epazote (a flatulence-reducing herb). Also touted is the fact that the kitchen uses 100-percent trans-fat-free oil for frying.

Cosmopolitan is sure to regain its strength as a Mexican-food hotspot among tourists and locals alike. For now, at least, there’s rarely a line on weekdays, and it’s easy to seize a choice spot on the patio with a jumbo margarita in hand.