“What’s a pamplemousse?” a man asked his party while dining within earshot of our booth.

“It’s grilled goose liver,” replied one of his dinner mates with a tone of uncertainty.

“No, no, no. It’s a grapefruit,” asserted another member of the group, who scored Jeopardy points for deciphering the French translation of this namesake restaurant that ranks among San Diego’s top 10 dining spots in the coveted Zagat Survey.

Pamplemousse Grille has been around for nearly 10 years, but still presents itself like a fresh ball of citrus oozing with pureness. The menu offers a juicy array of contemporary American-French dishes, all lovingly presented, not to mention one of the plumpest wine lists in the region with a bottle inventory totaling more than $1 million.

Yet despite a showering of critical acclaim by food critics and a patronage that includes wealthy professionals and occasional celebrities – i.e., Courtney Cox, Clint Eastwood and Geena Davis – the highbrow attitude you’d expect is cheerfully missing.

Owner/chef Jeffrey Strauss is from New York City. He’s gregariously warm and outspoken, with a demeanor more typical of the boroughs than of haughty Manhattan. His culinary philosophy is upfront: “We cook for people what they want to eat, not what we want them to eat.” With that said, the stage is set for a comfortable dining experience that allows you to lose the tie and sport coat if you choose and loiter over a good bottle of wine without feeling like you’re being pushed out.

My dining companion and I took to dishes recommended by our astute waitress, plus Strauss himself, who appears equally content mingling with guests in the dining room as he does working in the kitchen. On a big square plate came the Medley of Five Starters, a colorful chef d’oeuvre that included a ravishing ahi tartare diced in petite cubes and rigged softly in soy sauce, rice vinegar and cilantro. Orbiting that was a frisky lobster avocado salad, fresh smoked salmon over potato pancake, tempura shrimp and a so-so lobster ravioli with a pasta casing too thick for my liking.

In what appeared like a perfectly assembled, three-dimensional jigsaw puzzle was the Smoked Seafood appetizer – a lobster chunk, scallop, shrimp, and salmon slice, all cold-smoked and interlocked into a delectable sphere set over buerre blanc sauce strewn with caviar. Strauss says that for “superstitious reasons” he keeps it as a verbal offering instead of printing it on the menu.

The earthy aroma of truffles that greeted us when we arrived materialized first in a palate-catching Truffled White Asparagus Soup, which matched up smartly to a glass of Tantara Pinot Noir stickered with a Pamplemousse label. Despite my companion’s disdain for asparagus, he slurped down the soup with utter approval.

A diminutive scoop of outsourced grapefruit sorbet is the ritualistic tongue refresher between courses. So deliciously stimulating, we were told that customers often pucker up for seconds.

From the entrée list, the Oscar-style Alaskan Halibut ranks among Strauss’ pride and joy – and for good reason. The filet was thick and flaky and showed no sign of being pre-frozen. “This is definitely the best piece of fish I’ve ever eaten,” effused my companion as we forked through its khaki-colored crust of almonds, herbs and lemon.

Equally robust in flavor was the Prime Bone-in Cowboy Rib Eye, which I ordered “medium” but came rare. The prized cut of steak was well marbled and sported hearty clumps of fat around the edges, which, unlike most carnivores, I cut away. Nonetheless, the meat struck a melting match to the Bernaise sauce, and came with a pedestal of terrific truffle French fries that diners mustn’t leave here without trying.

Other specialties include Crispy Duck, Grilled Kurobuta Pork Tenderloin, Lamb Stew and a selection of fish that can be grilled or oven poached.

Desserts are constructed at an open cooking station near the entrance, along with table bread that includes lemon-thyme biscuits and jalapeno corn muffins. Strauss’ dessert medley is the way to go – another masterpiece platter that included Pear Tart Tartin (my companion’s favorite), Chocolate Peanut Butter Bombe and Lemon Custard Cake (my favorite).

Pamplemousse’s interior is light and cushy sans the intimidating élan you’d expect from such fine-dining haunts. Paintings of French café scenes along with one showing pigs hunting for truffles serve as focal points. The theme turns whimsical outside the restroom doors, where life-size paintings of a Harley daddy and biker chick may leave you scratching your head, just like so many people do when they hear the name, Pamplemousse.