dining out
Simmer down
Soups for the winter season
Published Thursday, 10-Nov-2005 in issue 933
Soup is the most universal meal course on earth. Its history dates back to 17th century Europe when it appeared on the tables of peasants who meshed chunks of bread over thick stews to soak up the liquids. Shortly after, thin soups became popular with the invention of the spoon. And in America, the first colonial cookbook published in 1742 by William Parks of Virginia included several recipes for soups and bisques.
Today, soup is the most versatile and varied dish on dinner menus. It can be made from every type of meat, fish, fruit and vegetable as demonstrated by the Campbell’s Soup Company ever since it invented condensed tomato soup in 1897. From standard chicken noodle and French onion to Japanese miso and chilled vichyssoise made with potatoes and leeks, soup making has evolved into a culinary art form that isn’t weighed down by too many rules.
The basis of homemade soups, however, is a tasty stock achieved by simmering meat or bones with aromatic vegetables and herbs – or just veggies to obtain a richly flavored liquid. Both consommé and broth are made from stock. The former is clarified through a muslin-lined sieve and results in a crystal-clear liquid, while broth is more loosely strained and left cloudy. Since stock needs to simmer for 2-3 hours, those on a time budget can substitute canned stocks or bouillon cubes in most recipes.
Developing the right consistency is the second challenge when trying your hands at making split pea or cream soups, for example. A food processor for pureeing some of the ingredients, as well as adding cream, flour or eggs will go a long way for thickening soups that turn out too thin.
Lastly, in order to prevent weak-tasting results, most soup should simmer for at least 90 minutes. The more you reduce it, the higher concentration of flavor you end up with. Additionally, herbs should be used from the start of a recipe, when making stocks, while salt and pepper should always be added toward the end of cooking as their flavors tend to dissipate in the long simmering process.
Below are a few easy and affordable soup recipes that make for perfect winter meals.
Basic Chicken Noodle Soup
1 whole chicken
1 large onion, sliced
1 large carrot, sliced
2 stalks celery, chopped
3 to 4 parsley sprigs
1 teaspoon salt
6 black peppercorns
2 ounces of medium wide egg noodles or thin pasta
In a large pot cover chicken with cold water and bring to a boil. Skim off fat that rises to the surface, then add onion, carrot and parsley sprigs. Simmer gently for 2 1/2 to 3 hours. Remove the chicken, strain the stock, then refrigerate both overnight. Reheat about 4 cups of stock in large saucepan. Add salt and peppercorns. Boil pasta separately, drain and add to stock immediately before serving.
Garlic Soup
3 tablespoons butter
6-7 garlic cloves
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
2 1/2 cups chicken stock (canned or homemade)
2/3 cup dry white wine
1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
1 egg yolk
2/3 cup half and half
3/4 cup ground almonds
Salt and pepper to taste
Seedless green grapes, cut in half for garnish
Melt butter in a large saucepan. Slightly crush garlic. Cook garlic in butter over low heat 3 to 4 minutes until golden. Stir in flour and gradually blend in stock. Stir in wine and thyme. Season with salt and pepper and simmer 10 minutes. In a separate bowl, beat egg yolk and half and half. Strain stock mixture into bowl, whisking constantly. Return mixture to clean pan. Stir in almonds and reheat without boiling. Garnish with grapes.
Lentil-Vegetable Soup
1 cup yellow lentils
1 medium onion, chopped
1 baking potato, peeled and cut into quarters
1 tomato cut into quarters
1 large carrot, peeled and sliced into 1-inch pieces
1/2 stick of butter (1/4 cup)
1/2 teaspoon each of allspice and cumin
Dash of salt
Dash of ground cardamom
Place lentils, onion, potato, tomato and carrot into a large pot and cover with about four cups of water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and let simmer until all ingredients are soft. Let cool completely, then blend in batches until smooth. In the same pot, melt the butter and reintroduce the blended vegetable mixture. Add water to desired consistency. Add allspice, cumin, salt and cardamom while gently reheating.
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