Call it San Diego’s newest “restaurant triangle.” The intersection at Fifth and Laurel has given way to a wonderful third kitchen that beefs up the culinary guard presiding over these once-sleepy corners.

Located between Hillcrest and downtown, Gemelli Italian Grill stares in the face the revamped Laurel restaurant to the east, and Bertrand’s at Mr. A’s looming just across the street to the north. A condominium high rise on the fourth corner prevents an overgrowth of fine-dining competition from erupting.

Vince Busalacchi and his wife JoJo own the restaurant, an independent venture from the popular Busalacchi’s Ristorante where Vince worked with his brother for the past 18 years. Here, he keeps his sleeves rolled up for presenting some of the best veal and pasta dishes that only a veteran of Sicilian cooking can give us.

Rounding out the menu are several vowel-heavy interpretations of chicken and seafood dishes, plus a few straightforward steaks of USDA prime grade. An available “twins special” of filet mignon and jumbo shrimp, plus framed pictures of the owners’ twin daughters toward the back of the dining room hint at the fact that Gemelli means “twins” in Italian. My dining companion and I (both of us half-Italian) weren’t aware of the translation until our waiter told us.

Seated alongside a tall window treated with heavy draperies and tasseled tiebacks, we launched into cold and hot appetizers that matched in elegance the restaurant’s stately charm. Caponata is a savory tapenade of fried eggplant, artichokes, green olives and capers. Apparently, I wasn’t the first to ask if the kitchen also sells it to go. So delectable in taste and appearance that it’s going onto my next party buffet.

We also loved the Crepes Cristina, a steamy triple-folded creation filled with Parmesan and pesto and topped with an Alfredo-like cream sauce. Though as a meal starter the dish is rather rich, it shouldn’t be passed over.

My companion’s Pomodoro Salad delivered a temporary downshift of flavors. The starring ingredients – yellow, red and cherry tomatoes – weren’t up to snuff in terms of sweetness. Far better was the Insalata di Finochio that I ordered. The arrangement featured crisp fingers of raw fennel surrounded by fresh avocado, meaty olives, red onion and a few quartered chunks of those anemic red tomatoes that stayed on the sidelines.

As our waiter displayed his operatic voice for singing happy birthday in Italian to a nearby group, we became reinvigorated over a couple of satisfying entrees that we augmented with ala Carte pasta side dishes. My companion chose Mama’s Imbotitti built from thin hollow spaghetti called buccatini. The pasta is wrapped in eggplant to form several small rolls that are stuffed with pesto and three cheeses. They’re doused in a fresh tomato sauce and the end result is pure Italian comfort food.

The same low-acidic sauce gave rise to my companion’s side order of gnocchi, which were lighter and springier compared to those lead-bullet potato dumplings that I’ve trudged through at other establishments.

Torn between a hearty braised veal shank we saw whiz past our table (Osso Bucco) and the Veal Marsala that a friend effused over recently – my indecision lead me to Veal Piccata. The tender meat medallions were dusted with just enough flour to gently thicken the classic and perfectly balanced glaze infused with butter, lemon and white wine. Potatoes compressed into firm tasty triangles and par-cooked broccoli complimented the meal.

From there, I hopped over to a side of Fettuccine Alfredo swathed in a strongly flavored cream sauce laced with high-grade Parmesan. For those accustomed to watery Alfredo sauces made with less cream and processed grated cheese, the Gemelli recipe restores calories and justice to the dish.

The wine list features some treasured reds, such as Caymus Special Select and Opus One. About half of the reserve list shows off cutting-edge Italian labels, and the other a variety of West Coast varietals, all tailored expressly for the owners’ fervent meal offerings.

A bowl of heaven-in-your mouth Tiramisu marked a natural ending to our white-linen dinner, along with a trifle crowned with wild berry compote. Both were airy and luscious. As a digestive, you can order a shot of white or black Sambuca served with the traditional three coffee beans for good luck.

In the blur of Italian eateries sprouting all over metro San Diego, Gemelli stands out with home-cooked dishes, hospitable wait service and a polished European-style atmosphere that fits the location.