“This is probably the best sticky rice I’ve eaten since I lived in San Francisco,” remarked my lunch companion as he nudged out a second lump of the starchy mass from a small bamboo container. The densely packed rice befitted a winning array of Thai dishes that became our exquisite feast at Lanna.

On this particular visit, the afternoon sky brimmed with dark rain clouds, prompting the owner to flick on a diffusion of recessed lighting that brought prominence to the minimalist interior. On clearer days the quaint dining room catches the direct beams of the sun, so it’s best to retain those Ray-Bans if you’re seated along the front windows.

What’s struck me both times I’ve eaten here is the spunky plate presentations: Sarong Shrimp elaborately entwined in crispy egg noodles, rice entrées served in heavy casserole pots and curries that show off their red, green and yellow colors because they’re not overly diluted with coconut milk. Also, the menu sneaks in a few items of Chinese and Japanese persuasion that other Thai restaurants usually leave out, such as tempura shrimp and calamari, and a sweet-and-sour stir fry that mixes pineapple into your choice of meat or seafood.

From the “beginning” category, the Mee-Grob isn’t as sickeningly sweet as others I’ve tried. A mound of thin, crisp vermicelli rice noodles held faintly together by eggs, sugar and vinegar revealed a hidden treasure of grilled shrimp and chicken within. The tofu that was supposed to be included, however, was missing in action. Additionally, the Thai Spring Rolls were delicate and fresh while the above-mentioned tempura that cloaked our sea meats was denser and chewier than most.

Generous strips of chilled top sirloin dominate the highly recommended Yum Nau salad, comprised also of fresh romaine, tomatoes and mint leaves. We found the combination of the zippy chili-lime dressing and tender beef addicting. We also started with the “two Toms” – Tom Kha and Tom Yum soups bursting with bright flavors of lemongrass, lime leaves and galanga. The Tom Kha takes on the added savor of coconut milk.

Owner Jack Jaroen opened Lanna four months ago after working as a waiter and assistant manager at Lotus Thai. “Here, I mix more colors into traditional Thai dishes through fresh natural ingredients such as carrots, green cabbage and Chinese eggplants,” he says. The latter took center stage in a wok entrée called East Eggplant, which we ordered with pork. The vegetable sported crayon-purple skins and fork-tender flesh. The meat was as white and supple as chicken and the soybean chili sauce was flavorsome without causing a sweat.

On a scale of 1 to 10, all of the dishes start off somewhere between 0 and 1 in terms of spiciness. For the Taro Rice casserole, I opted for a 4. It was perfectly calibrated to heat the tongue for all but a few seconds at a time. Though in taking a gamble, I didn’t care much for the taro root, which was cut into copious cubes and appeared like graying potatoes. Used in Hawaii for making poi, it merely added substance to the medley and was defeated in flavor by the shrimp, chicken, peas and carrots that were built in.

Lanna’s menu is user-friendly by most Thai restaurant standards because of the way it’s neatly categorized into noodle, rice, wok and curry dishes. There’s also a “specialty” section that attests to Jaroen’s broad knowledge of Thai cuisine, and leaps into more elaborate and creative productions such as Trillicious Salmon surrounded by three different curries (the yellow curry being the most beautifully sweet) or Tropical Duck over a tangy mango and pineapple sauce.

Fried bananas, sweet rice and homemade ice creams with green tea and coconut came as no surprise on the dessert menu. Fruitopia Cheesecake did, although I left too stuffed and satisfied each time to wash away those traditional Thai aftertastes with even a morsel of sugar.

Lanna is tucked away in a diminutive strip plaza and hardly stands out on the street. Your landmarks are a 7-Eleven and the famous Sushi Ota. Yet if you’re looking for a chic and soothing atmosphere the next time you’re on the hunt for pad Thai noodles or basil-fried rice, this is a place worth checking out.