The word “casserole” takes a bum rap in this age of highbrow healthy eating. Though its French definition actually defines the lightweight ceramic or glass dish used for baking, the all-American casserole has plunged into culinary darkness for lacking fanciness and being associated to “trash” eating.

Casserole cooking became popular in North America in the 1950s, no doubt at a time when recipes bound with cream soups and topped with breadcrumbs gave way to the saltiness of diced Spam or hotdogs also contained in the dishes. With the exception of classic green bean casserole baked with cream of mushroom soup, which I’ve never sneezed at, those former creations are best forgotten.

From the 1960s through the 1980s, a slew of noodle and Mexican casseroles emerged and covered the tables of church functions, funeral gatherings and, to my recollection, a lot of lesbian potlucks. But home cooks were on an innovative roll by tossing in things like imported cheeses, chili peppers, crafty cream sauces and better grades of meat.

Casseroles today deserve a second look, given the fact they’re easy to make and that we have fresher food products available on the market. Below are a few recipes to consider for upping the ante of your next casserole.

2 cups water

1 teaspoon salt

1 head cauliflower cut into flowerets

1/3 cup butter

1 cup Swiss cheese, shredded

1/2 cup seasoned breadcrumbs

1/2 teaspoon garlic salt

Salt and pepper to taste

3 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded and cut into strips

Bring water and salt to a boil in a large saucepan. Add cauliflower, cover and return to boil. Reduce heat and cook about 15 minutes or until cauliflower is tender. Drain and then set aside. Melt butter on low heat in a small saucepan. Stir in Swiss cheese, breadcrumbs, garlic salt, salt and pepper. Sprinkle one half of crumb mixture over bottom of a 1.5-quart casserole dish. Arrange cauliflower and tomatoes over crumbs. Top with remaining crumb mixture. Bake at 375 degrees for 20 minutes until golden brown. Serves four.

3 large potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 cup shredded cheddar cheese

1 pound Polish kielbasa

1/2 teaspoon dried dill weed

1/4 teaspoon caraway seed

2/3 cup whole or part-skim milk

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Using two long sheets of aluminum foil on top of each other, fold one long edge together and open out to make a large sheet of foil. Line a 13-by-9-inch pan with the foil, allowing edges to hang outside of pan. Arrange the sliced potatoes, overlapping slightly, in bottom of pan. Sprinkle with pepper. Top with half of the cheese. Cut sausage in half crosswise and lengthwise and place – cut side down – on top. Top with remaining cheese, dill weed, caraway seed and milk. Seal edges of foil tightly. Bake at 375 degrees for one hour. Serves three to four.

2 lbs. medium raw scallops

1 lb. medium raw shrimp, peeled

1 (28 oz.) can stewed tomatoes

1 lb. feta cheese

1/4 cup white wine

1 large onion, sliced

1 clove garlic, minced

1 teaspoon sugar

1/2 stick butter

1 tablespoon fresh parsley

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Brown onion and garlic in a pan. Add tomatoes and sugar. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Cook seafood in butter for two minutes or until it turns white, then set aside in a bowl. Put white wine in pan and cook down for two minutes. Put seafood into flat casserole. Top with pan mixture. Sprinkle top with feta cheese and parsley. Bake 20 minutes at 400 degrees. Serve over rice. Serves six.

1/4 cup melted butter or margarine

1 tablespoon yellow prepared mustard

2 cups unseasoned croutons

2 cups onion and/or garlic flavored croutons

2 cups cheddar cheese, grated

6 eggs

10 slices bacon

2 cups milk

Cook bacon until crisp; drain on paper towels and crumble. Spray a 9-by-12-by-2-inch baking dish with vegetable spray. Place croutons in casserole and pour butter over them. Sprinkle grated cheese over the entire layer. Mix milk, eggs and mustard and pour over cheese. Sprinkle bacon crumbs over all. Bake at 325 degrees for 45 minutes. Allow casserole to stand for 15 minutes before serving. Serves eight to 10.