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dining out
A walk through the aisles
Product reviews of everyday grocery items
Published Thursday, 02-Mar-2006 in issue 949
Krusteaz Mango Bars
Description: An easy-to-bake mix for dessert mango bars with natural and artificial flavors by Krusteaz, makers of pancake and waffle flour since 1932.
Preparation summary: Mix water and eggs and add in mango topping mix. Then press flour crust into square baking dish. Cook for eight minutes and then remove from oven. Place liquid topping over crust and return to oven for 24-26 minutes until set.
Highpoints: Starts out making a good impression the moment oven exudes buttery mango whiffs throughout kitchen airspace. Seemingly authentic fruit flavor not drowned out by sugar.
Lowpoints: Imagine mango Gummy Bears clinging to your teeth. Highly sticky texture calls for supersonic OxyJet after first bite.
Average retail price: $3.49
Availability: Major grocery stores
Morningstar Farms Veggie Buffalo Wings
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Description: Spicy veggie “Buffalo wings” with crispy breading (15 nuggets per box). Made with soy protein, wheat gluten and egg whites.
Preparation summary: Bake desired amount of frozen “wings” on cookie sheet for 16-18 minutes, turning halfway through the cooking process. Or microwave until heated, one to five minutes depending on quantity.
Highpoints: Yellow corn flour in the batter presents a similar crunch you’d expect from sizzled chicken skin. Dense meaty texture and spicy flavor pair swimmingly with bleu cheese dressing. Vegetarians can consider themselves “wing dingers.”
Lowpoints: Reveal to a native Buffalonian that you’re eating these and face a tortuous execution in the town’s public deep fryer.
Average retail price: $2.98
Availability: Most major grocery stores, Trader Joe’s and Henry’s
Trader Joe’s Champagne Pear Vinaigrette
Description: Thick vinaigrette made with pear puree and interspersed with chunks of Gorgonzola cheese.
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Preparation summary: Ready to eat. Pour over salads or use as a dip.
Highpoints: Sweet enough to stave off those pastry and ice cream cravings for 24 hours after consumption.
Lowpoints: As with so many champagne-based dressings, there is no real bubbly in the mix, but enough cloying “pear essence” and brown sugar to overwhelm your salad.
Average retail price: $2.59
Availability: Trader Joe’s
Delecta Bowl Alfredo Pasta and Cheese Dinner
Description: Instant corkscrew pasta meal in alfredo sauce by Noodle Chef.
Preparation summary: Pour powdered cheese sauce over pasta, add hot water and then microwave for three minutes.
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Highpoints: Makes for great survival food after natural disasters or homeland emergencies, provided you have access to hot water.
Lowpoints: You’ll need a shot of heavy cream and a pile of high-grade Parmesan and Romano cheeses to turn this vapid illusion into anything that remotely resembles pasta alfredo.
Average retail price: $1.29
Availability: Most major grocery stores
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