It’s not too often that I swing through the pokey little coastal town of Encinitas, which seems better known for its botanical gardens and pretty beaches than its savoir “fare.” Yet on a recent Wednesday evening we detected a bit of Saturday night fever occurring at the redbrick Lumberyard plaza, where the townsfolk flock to savor the sprightly eats and mid-week wine specials of Meritage.

Colorful murals accenting soft tan walls add depth to the restaurant’s California-style atmosphere. And the menu resonates accordingly with such regional standbys as Sesame-Crusted Ahi, Vegetable Canneloni and Chicken Spring Rolls. Add to the mix a steady supply of heirloom tomatoes, beans and figs grown on nearby farms — and the kitchen’s focus on freshness becomes readily apparent.

But the real surprise lies squarely in the quality of service. Our waiter, Jason, was anything but a California breeze. In fact my dining companion and I wondered if he was a chef in disguise given the fact he was able to answer every one of our questions pertaining to certain dishes without having to “check with the kitchen.”

He explained how the fabulous aioli (which accompanied our undercooked grilled artichoke) is infused with lemon and a hint of lavender. The Creamy Oriecchiette Pasta, he assured, is more garlicky than the Shrimp Linguine. And his detailed breakdown of the Heirloom Tomato Gazpacho also proved accurate — sweet, well chilled and drizzled lightly with basil oil — it tasted fantastic.

We also sampled the Lobster Bisque, a meaty version that doesn’t rely on excessive cream to obtain its velvety consistency. An Arugula and Avocado Salad provided a summery light balance, offering scant shavings of Parmesan cheese, red onion and hearts of palm. But that grilled garlic-oregano artichoke might have yielded more pulp had it been cooked only five minutes longer.

My companion succumbed to the wafting smell of meat sizzling from the grill by choosing a sinus-bursting Filet Mignon that was excellent. It’s slathered with an unavoidable white horseradish-cream sauce and plenty of fresh rosemary. An accompanying stack of farm-fresh green and yellow string beans made for a picture-perfect presentation. Flat Iron and New York steaks are also listed on the menu.

I opted for the garlicky pasta ears —– Oriecchiette mixed with a liberal dose of crumbled chicken sausage, sun-dried tomatoes and cured olives. The cream sauce was tasty and thin, allowing me to polish off the whole dish without feeling as though I had become pregnant with twins.

Chef Susan Sbicca, who also owns Sbicca’s in Del Mar, brings equilibrium to her dishes by counterbalancing fatty ingredients with low-calorie ones. This is California cuisine at its finest. The salads are never oily. And her heavy use of herbs, nuts and organic vegetables never seems to compromise a meal’s lushness.

The restaurant’s extensive wine offerings and promotions remain a big draw. All bottles are half-price on Mondays and Wednesdays — a fact that was quickly pointed out to us by both our waiter and a festive group of gay men sitting at a table next to ours. On Tuesdays the $12 corkage fee is waived. And on Thursdays the martinis are only $4.

Sitting within a full dining room, we couldn’t help but table-snoop at some of the other colorful entrées served here: Grilled Wild Salmon with green peas and sweet shallot sauce, Bourbon-Marinated Pork with Creole-pecan pilaf, Seafood Jambalaya and Marinated Flat Iron Steak with homemade mac and cheese on the side.

Our desserts were hit and miss. The companion’s chocolate-dipped cheesecake was heavenly and light in texture. Conversely, my chocolate-banana sundae seemed overly ambitious — a deep dish of banana gelato with all the usual sundae toppings, plus crumbled chocolate brownies that tasted stale.

But when two full-course meals can be rated as 99 percent fresh, it’s easy to ignore a few dry crumbs.