When it comes to location, David Witt can count himself among San Diego’s luckiest restaurateurs. Earlier this year, he moved from Hillcrest his long-established kitchen, Fifth & Hawthorn, into the front lobby of the Stephen and Mary Birch North Park Theater, built in 1928. The meticulously restored venue is a sight to behold. And the restaurant, simply renamed Hawthorn’s, tastes as good as it looks.

Large glass windows below the marquee have replaced the theater’s front doors, making Hawthorn’s an enviable focal point in a neighborhood that may soon match Hillcrest in terms of vibrancy. Inside, brilliant theatrical photographs set against penetrating purple and smooth olive green attest to the restaurant’s longstanding relationship with thespians of the Old Globe Theatre, who still gather for cast parties and production powwows. An original set of windowed doors separates the main dining room from the bar lounge, where a gorgeous, intricately patterned ceiling was uncovered during restoration. Just beyond is the theater’s new lobby, which pales in design when you start gawking at the 78-year-old cornices and relief work incorporated throughout the restaurant.

Witt’s chefs raise the curtain on a menu that has been nearly 90 percent revised. Shrimp cocktail, crab-salmon cakes and seared filet mignon with peppercorn sauce are the last vestiges of Fifth & Hawthorn. My dining companion and I skipped over those for more “theatrical” fare that rarely missed a cue.

An ample serving of steamed Carlsbad Mussels resting in a silky brew of chardonnay, butter and crème fraiche were tender and youthful in texture. The garlic, shallots and herbs in the juice, however, could have been given stronger billing. Thin, pleasing french fries crowning the dish provide extra sustenance for those choosing to stick to the appetizer category.

Another starter, called Theater Wings, (a.k.a. “chicken wing lollipops”), were delicious and out of the ordinary. The skin and meat on the fried drumettes are pushed down to the tips of the bones, folded inward and glazed in a spicy soy sauce that was less kicky than the avocado-cilantro puree drizzled around the plate. If you’re dressed in formal threads before taking in a show, fear not. These wings are neat and easy and the least messy of all to eat.

Act II had us slurping down a robust caramelized onion soup spiked with aged Spanish sherry and Manchego cheese, both of which keenly complimented the broth’s thicket of sweet, wilted onions. Big cubes of tender carnitas floating within added heartiness, but seemed unnecessary since the pork contributed only neutral support to the stout flavors already established in this recipe. A cool, crisp salad of field greens spruced up by hearts of palm, feta and avocado united perfectly amid a well-balanced basil-Dijon dressing.

My companion’s entrée, Seared Alaskan Halibut, successfully soaked up the flavor attributes from a puddle of red miso broth. The red tint originates from aged miso, which is darker, richer and tastier than white miso. Electric-green wasabi caviar garnished the hefty cut of fish, accompanied also by perfectly steamed Jasmine rice perfumed with a hint of ginger.

Thickness matters when you’re served pork chops in fine establishments like this. Despite its salty chipotle seasoning, my cutting knife traveled a good long journey before each bite I extracted from Hawthorn’s mondo chop – a beautiful, juicy specimen presented with homey jus and some of the best buttery mashed potatoes I’ve eaten since Thanksgiving. (No garlic or horseradish in these spuds, thank you.)

Since opening in April, the menu has produced other raves that include Chateaubriand Tamales made with tenderloin medallions, wild mushrooms and foie gras in a cream sauce of red wine and tarragon. Also recommended is the Roasted Chicken Breast stuffed with goat cheese and artichokes and served with balsamic jus.

A full bar allows you to sip on martinis, cosmos and other pretty libations that fit the stylish, supper-club motif. The wine list is a succinct roundup of California reds and whites, ranging from light to full-bodied. If you’re eating red meat, consider the Ravenswood Zinfandel from Lodi for a foolproof pairing.

Desserts are made exclusively for Hawthorn’s by a small company called Sweet Spot Desserts, although a classic crème brulee we enjoyed is constructed on the premises. Triple Key Lime Delight is less tart than others and features a layer of creamy white chocolate inside.

Astute wait service and high-quality food make Hawthorn’s a pioneer of fine dining in North Park. And the atmosphere is so alluring and comfortable that you’ll need to keep a close eye on time if you’re dining here before a stage show.