Restaurateur Jim Barrasso couldn’t have picked a better insect to name his new grill and wine bar after in east Encinitas. Amid this normally docile culinary scene buzzes the bright and electrically charged Firefly, serving stylish cuisine and a juicy gamut of limited-production wines that will delight both novice and connoisseur palates.

Barrasso’s venture skips the trial-and-error phase common to first-time restaurant owners. A culinary arts graduate of Johnson and Wales University, he arrives with a 25-year career in the hospitality industry, having worked as corporate chef for Morton’s of Chicago and as operations director for other multiunit restaurants. Choosing to focus on the wine end of the business, he’s passed the culinary torch confidently to Chef Tom Dimella, also a graduate of Barrasso’s alma mater and former sous chef of the Hyatt Regency La Jolla at Aventine and Pamplemousse Grille. The men’s combined talents make Firefly a no-brainer.

Sponge-painted walls in burning orange dominate the main dining room, a rather vast space accented also by metallic flames concealing soft light. The lounge and wine bar area is smaller and feels more traditional, with polished wood accents and windows exposing an unadorned yet comfortable outdoor patio.

Wines by the glass are aplenty – more than 30 of them grouped conveniently into color and flavor categories for those occasional beer and martini drinkers we noticed waddle in. A 2003 Zolo Malbec from Argentina was music to my taste buds, while my dining companion (who pooh-poohs me for leaning toward this varietal) savored a 2004 private reserve Beringer Chardonnay from Napa Valley. We later moved on to one of the loudest, fruitiest zins by Rosenblum, from San Francisco Bay, as well as the most expensive red on the list for only $12 – a less monstrous, medium-bodied Atalon Merlot from Napa. The bottle list is tripled in comparison, boasting wines from regions all over the world and ranging in price from $17 to a little more than $100.

The term “wine bar” proves its generality here with a much fuller food menu than others throughout the county. From the “sample” section, the Smoked Salmon Slices gave us raw, smoked fish that was so fresh, I would have bet it was delivered only moments before we arrived. Served under chilled fingerling potatoes, the sweet and herby tarragon dressing pulled the ingredients together exquisitely.

Caramelized pears, curry and crème fraiche are brilliantly integrated in Puree of Red Pepper Soup, a memorable alchemy of flavors that shouldn’t be passed up. Or for those coming in to drink more and eat less, the Seared Filet Mignon Bites with red wine sauce provides a savory dose of protein along with a lovely heap of carbs from brie mashed potatoes. I would’ve preferred, however, that the meat be flame-seared rather than flat-grilled.

Order from the menu’s “savor” category and you’re suddenly transported into a full-fledged restaurant experience that happens to serve good wine. The chef’s Squash Roulade, for instance, is a highly satisfying vegetarian entrée made with zesty hummus, warm artichokes and perfectly wilted spinach rolled into strips of squash and topped with a teasingly spicy red pepper aioli.

Thick and fleecy was the Herb Crusted Halibut sporting a golden-sautéed coating that popped with just the right amount of salt and herbs. Underneath sat a bed of hearty white beans in a pond of red pepper sauce that tasted suspiciously like the abovementioned soup, though I didn’t mind. Other entrée choices include Roasted Half Duck with clove-mango chutney, Bourbon Mustard Pork Medallions served over cabbage and bacon, and Hazelnut Encrusted Shrimp Scaloppine with crab over pearl pasta.

A breakfast/brunch menu features seven different styles of eggs benedict and a unique baked French toast made with lots of eggs and heavy cream so that it puffs like soufflé.

Chef Dimella also wears the hat of pastry chef, extending his wizardry to an oh-my-God dessert of oven-fresh shortbread spiked with orange and lemon zest and served with lip-smacking berry “salsa” and airy vanilla whipped cream. The Strawberry-Banana-Pecan Cobbler paled in comparison.

Come to Firefly for the wine and you’ll be exposed to fine food. Come for the food and you’ll likely develop a heightened appreciation for “the juice.”