What used to be the richly paneled, oft-intimidating Prince of Wales at the Hotel Del Coronado has gone poof! In a complete vanishing act, the landmark restaurant leaves behind only its backyard ocean view to a spanking-new space called 1500 Ocean. The high-star ratings its predecessor garnered from numerous food critics over the years are sure to shine upon Ocean’s “southland coastal” menu, which reaps fresh ingredients from Santa Ynez to Cabo San Lucas.

The remodeled interior shows off clean lines of cherry-stained mahogany, plus leather-upholstered chairs and a back wall illuminated in deep sunset colors that match the menu decals. Windowed doors open up to a patio, affording postcard views of the Pacific against the property’s scrupulous landscaping.

Not since I was a kid have I forked into the American version of Toad in the Hole – or Frog in a Pond as some call it. Unlike the traditional British recipe, which involves sausages and Yorkshire pudding set into a lump of bread, Ocean’s chef de cuisine, Jason Shaeffer, sends out the familiar, soft-cooked egg nestled in the middle of sweet brioche and surrounds it with black trumpet mushrooms and par-cooked asparagus. A comforting song and dance occurs when the yolk starts to bleed. This is a fine and delectable starter course that I’m betting will be copied in one form or another by other top-scale restaurants in the coming months.

Lighter and equally satisfying was Lime and Honey Cured Yellowtail, a petite, sashimi-style presentation that smacked cleverly of sweet, hot and suave flavors from seedless jalapeno jelly, radish and avocado mousse. Very fresh and well constructed.

Grilled Hearts of Romaine salad with tender rings of calamari dusted in smoked paprika offered fine colors and textures, but despite piquillo peppers and capers in the scheme it wasn’t as tongue punching as my companion and I expected. A little extra charring on the romaine, we felt, might have compensated for the missing edge.

Head-thrashing good was Shaeffer’s Big Heart Artichoke Soup, a creamless and summery thin puree with a hint-o-butter and tangy, toasted bits of Parmesan Reggiano floating about. Diners may have only until early fall to slurp on this sensational recipe, as the chef stays closely attuned to seasonal bounties.

A recent delivery of jumbo, sweet scallops harvested from nearby waters, for example, played a starring role in my companion’s entrée – Pan Seared Mano de Leon Scallops served with succotash embracing a judicious dose of bacon, along with beautifully roasted corn speckled generously with tail and claw lobster meat. The seafood components were mutually discernible and soft to the bite, unlike the rubbery globules I too often encounter when these crustaceans cross the delicate line into well done.

Shaeffer’s preparation of Kurabuto Pork Short Rib and Loin tasted too good to be true. Order it medium and you get a plate of pinkish, juicy medallions from two parts of the pig with crisped fatty edges that even a purist eater can’t resist. The meat is accented with aged sherry vinegar reduction and served with the abovementioned grilled corn, mixed here instead with pearl onions, morel mushrooms and thyme.

From the “accents” menu, the Golden Potato Mousseline is the queen of all mashes. Shaeffer says the spuds are “barely simmered in water” to retain their natural flavor and then infused with hot cream and cold butter. We didn’t leave behind a speck. Other sides include Braised Rainbow Chard, Haricots Vert with almonds and Mac ’n’ Cheese made with fusilli pasta and aged cheddar.

From the wine list, we jumped from fine champagne to a sprightly chardonnay, sticking finally to Mark West Pinot Noir, which thoroughly complimented Shaeffer’s fiercely fresh, no-nonsense dishes. And the service we received from waiter John Rielly was flawless – the kind of server who knows how to pair food and wine and who assured us that the restaurant is “gay friendly.”

For dessert, we turned to the “cheese hive” for Winchester Aged Gouda drizzled in walnut oil, which added a stimulating nuttiness to the curds. A trio of house-made sorbets also marked our happy ending with the coconut sorbet being the most refreshing and powerful tasting, and probably the most caloric compared to the fruity varieties. But with an inviting Coronado Beach waiting outside, who cares? We took a long, fat-burning walk back to the car.